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HERB & SPICE COMPANION
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SICHUAN PEPPER
Zanthoxylum simulans
Flavors: peppery, woody, tangy,
with slight citrus
These reddish-brown berries are unrelated to the common black pepper (Piper nigrum)
and chili pepper (Capsicum), and they offer a flavor all their own. With subtle lemon
and a light tongue-tingling effect, Sichuan pepper adds complexity and mild heat to
many dishes from its namesake region of China, which is famous for its fiery spices.
Grown on prickly ash trees, the berries open when dried and their bitter, sandy
seeds are removed; only the husks are
ground and used in cooking. Sichuan
pepper—hua jiao, or “flower pepper,”
in Mandarin and faa jiu in Cantonese—
is an integral ingredient in Chinese five-
spice powder (see page 250), frequently
used in traditional “red-cooked,” or
braised, dishes.
The leaves of another prickly ash,
Zanthoxylym piperitem, are also harvested.
Called kinome, these leaves are dried and
powdered to create sancho, a spice used
in Japanese cooking that’s essential to shi-
chimi togarashi, or Japanese seven-spice
powder (see page 250).
In the Garden
As perennials grown in temperate climates in China, Japan, and the Himalayas, prickly
ash trees are dioecious, or single-sexed, meaning they need both male and female
specimens in order to bear fruit. However, a couple trees will produce tasty pepper-
corns for many years. Handle them with care: The trunk, branches, and twigs are lined
with spines or thorns. They’re not called “prickly” for nothing!
Size: 6 to 20 feet tall, about 15 feet wide
Container: At least 15 gallons
HEALTH BENEFITS
Like other hot spices, Sichuan pepper
stimulates digestion starting from
the moment it enters your mouth,
triggering the release of saliva and
other gastric juices. It’s also known
to prevent and relieve gas and
cramps. The bark of the prickly ash
tree was used historically to soothe
toothaches, thanks to its signature
numbing effect; this earned it the
nickname “toothache tree.”
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