HOTELCAMP SITETaxi
Grands taxis to Fnideq (for Ceuta; Dh15, 30 minutes) and Martil (Dh5, 15 minutes) leave from
Ave Hassan II, near Lovers Park. Occasional grands taxis to Al-Hoceima (Dh150, eight hours)
wait on a dusty lot 100m further east behind the new Modern Art Museum.
The taxi rank on Place al-Hammama, 2km west of central Tetouan, is the place to pick up
grands taxis to Chefchaouen (Dh30, one hour) and Tangier (Dh25, 1¼ hours). If you are arriving
from either of these places, the taxi driver may drop you closer to the town centre.
Grands taxis to Oued Laou are located underneath the Ave al-Massira overpass – which is
easily missed.
Getting Around
Petits taxis are canary yellow but don’t have meters; a ride around town should be around
Dh10. If you have your own vehicle, you can keep your car at the guarded Parking Hammadi
(Ave Al Jazaer; per 4hr daytime Dh10, per night Dh10).
Around Tetouan
While Tetouan itself sees few foreigners, in summer both local and Europe-based Moroccans
flock to the golden beaches so close to the town. Huge developments are under way, from
Fnideq near Ceuta southwards to M’Diq, Cabo Negro and Martil. There will be large golf
resorts and swathes of holiday apartments along new corniches (beachfront roads). Most of
these projects lie half-completed; building has largely been halted due to lack of investment
during the credit crunch.
MARTIL
Tetouan’s port of Martil is a rapidly growing, modern beach town with a broad mountain view
and a long corniche paralleled by streets full of cafes, ice-cream shops and restaurants. It has
year-round weekend visitors, and heaves in the summer, but is deserted the rest of the time.
It’s a viable base if you don’t mind the 8km, 10-minute cab ride to Tetouan.
Sleeping & Eating
Hotel Etoile de la Mer €
( 0539 97 90 58; Ave Hassan II; s/d incl breakfast Dh177/231; ) With its funky design – a
central, plant-filled atrium criss-crossed by stairways – and good location one block from the
beach, this is Martil’s top sleeping option at the moment. Riffian textiles and green paint
brighten things up. The best rooms have balconies overlooking the sea, and the restaurant
serves alcohol.
Camping al-Boustane €
( /fax 0539 68 88 22; Corniche; camping per person Dh20, per tent/car/campervan
Dh30/20/35, electricity Dh30; office 7.30am-noon, 7-11pm; ) This secure camp site is
one block from the beach, set in a pretty garden. Facilities are showing their age, but it does
have a reasonable restaurant (mains from Dh55) and a pool in summer. There are serious