visiting, if only to gawk at an interior
that’s every bit as gaudy as the exterior is
gorgeous. If you’re not staying, you need
a restaurant reservation to get past lobby
security. Don’t expect any bargains: Friday
brunch is Dh525 and afternoon tea will set
you back between Dh275 and Dh425 with
several options available, including Asian.
Settings include the Skyview Bar, some
200m above the waves. Check the website
for details. If you don’t want tea, you can
come here for cocktails (between 8pm and
1am), accompanied by live jazz. But, again,
you must reserve in advance.
5 Eating
The restaurants in dubai’s low-rise, high-
rent district draw wealthy locals and
tourists on holiday� Though the beach
is never far away, it’s barely visible from
some of the eateries reviewed here;
for ocean views, head to new dubai or
Madinat Jumeirah� The restaurants at
Madinat Jumeirah generally have good-
quality food and are the most scenic –
though they tend to be touristy and
overpriced� note that al-dhiyafah rd in
satwa is the best walking street in the
city and is tops for a late-night shwarma�
a -Maharal Sea FooD $$$
Map p218 (%04-301 7600; http://www.jumeirah.com;
burj al-arab, Jumeirah rd, umm Suqeim 3; mains
Dh250-300; h12.30-3pm & 7-11.30pm) A lift
posing as a submarine deposits you at a
gold-leaf-clad tunnel leading you to Dubai’s
most unique restaurant. Diners sit around
a huge circular aquarium where clownfish
flit and baby sharks dart as their sea bass
and halibut cousins are being...devoured.
Surreal yes, but at least the quality meas-
ures up to the hype. Try the Maine lobster
starter and bring that platinum card. Res-
ervations essential.
ZhenG he’s Chine Se $$
Map p218 (%04-366 6730; http://www.jumeirah.com;
Mina a’Salam, Madinat Jumeirah, al-Sufouh rd,
umm Suqeim 3; mains Dh75-240) An army of
20 clatters pans and fires woks behind the
glass of the open kitchen at spectacular
Zheng He’s, famed for its fresh, light dim
sum and stellar seafood specials (many din-
ers go for the live tank, but others prefer
the wasabi prawns with black pepper). The
Sino-chic room is gorgeous, with a pagoda-
style ceiling. No children under four years
old. Reservations essential.l Tree iMe cafe i rnanTe Tional $
Map p218 (Jumeirah rd, Jumeirah 1; mains Dh20-
40; h7.30am-6pm; c) The salads, quiches,
focaccias and wraps are innovative and
the smoothies lip-smackingly creamy (try
the blueberry) at this expat favourite on
the Jumeirah strip. Other assets are its
use of fresh ingredients (including organic
coffee) and the wholesome cooking (just
how the yoga mammas, power shoppers
and health nuts like it). Portions are gener-
ous, prices good, and the carrot cake is the
best in town. Located near the Jumeirah
Mosque.p erchici Sea FooD $$$
Map p218 (%04-366 6730; http://www.madinatjumei
rah.com; al-qasr, Madinat Jumeirah, al-Sufouh rd,
umm Suqeim 3; mains Dh100-240; hnoon-3pm
& 7pm-midnight) Looking for a place to drop
an engagement ring into a glass of cham-
pagne? Make reservations for this stun-
ning seafood house at the end of a long pier
jutting out to sea. The best tables line the
outdoor decks and provide gorgeous vistas
of the Burj al-Arab and Madinat Jumeirah.
The food is solidly good, but the overambi-
tious menu can get a little heavy-handed
with its ingredient combinations; keep your
order simple and you’ll fare better. Note
that sitting inside defeats the purpose of
coming here. Reservations essential.sM lini G bKK Thai $
Map p218 (%04-349 6677; off al-Wasl rd, Ju-
meirah 1; mains Dh25-50; h11am-midnight; c)d d i you KnoW?The white metal crosspieces at the
top of the Burj al-Arab form what is
said to be the largest cross in the Mid-
dle East – but it’s only visible from the
sea� Some say the Western architect
did it on purpose� Regardless, by the
time it was discovered, it was too late
to redesign the tower, even if its owner
Sheikh Mohammed had wanted to –
the hotel has already put Dubai on the
map and become the icon for the city�
What do you think? Go see it on a boat
charter and decide for yourself� The
scale of it is amazing�Jumeirah(^) e
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