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Locals will kill us for including this indie

hole-in-the-wall Thai gem (located near Ju-

meirah Post Office), but it’s too good not to

share. The walls of the cheek-by-jowl space

are covered with hipster mishmash (think

Van Gogh paint-by-numbers postcards),

and there’s scratchy rock-and-roll blaring

through big speakers (sit outside for quiet

conversation). A Thai national cooks your

dinner. The food is good, sometimes very

good, but what’s even better is the adven-

ture of finding this underground boho

hangout. (Hint: look for the mustachioed

neon Mona Lisa, just west of the Jumeirah

Post Office.)

The MeaT coMpany S akhouTe Se $$

Map p218 (%04 368 6040; Madinat Jumeirah,

al-Sufouh rd, umm Suqeim 3; mains Dh85-120;

h7pm-11.30pm) Overlooking the canals at

Madinat Jumeirah with the Burj Khalifa

backdrop, this place takes its meat seri-

ously and gives you a beefy choice ranging

from an Australian grain-fed Angus to a

Brazilian grass-fed beast. Other options in-

clude a hanging skewer of marinated lamb

and there are several veggie side dishes

such as wild mushrooms. This is a popular

celeb place judging by the signed plates on

the wall. Reservations recommended.

p i Thaia Thai $$

Map p218 (%04-366 6730; al-qasr, Madinat

Jumeirah, al-Sufouh rd, umm Suqeim 3; mains

Dh55-180; h6.30-11.30pm) A boat ride, a wa-

terside table and candlelight are the hall-

marks of a romantic night out and this

enchanting spot at the Al-Qasr sparks on

all cylinders. If your date doesn’t make you

swoon, then the beautifully crafted Thai

dishes should still ensure an unforgettable

evening. Or come for Friday brunch (with/

without alcohol Dh240/190). Reservations

recommended.

p rs a iranian KiTchen i anian r $

Map p218 (Satwa roundabout, Satwa; mezze

Dh15-20, mains Dh35-55; h6pm-1am; c) En-

joy hot wheels of bread made daily in the

outside brick oven along with such classics

as creamy muttabal (purée of aubergine

mixed with tahini, lemon and olive oil),

hummus, and juicy Iranian-style spicy ke-

babs paired with buttery saffron rice. You’ll

feel like a pasha lounging amid the fat pil-

lows on a carpeted platform surrounded by

twinkle-lit hedges. Too authentic? Opt for

a traditional table. Alas, the lack of indoor

seating makes Pars a poor choice in sum-

mer. There’s a daytime traditional Iranian

bakery here, as well.

Japen Go cafe i rnanTe Tional $

Map p218 (palm Strip Mall, Jumeirah rd, Jumeirah

1; mains Dh30-50; c) Grab a window or ter-

race seat for great views of the Jumeirah

Mosque. Decorated with plenty of rattan

contrasting with shiny black, the menu is

vast and varied, featuring dishes from east

to west. Opt for the east or, more specifi-

cally the Indonesian-style nasi goreng isti-

mewa (fried rice with sausages, eggs and

prawns), sushi, sashimi, tempura dishes

or a delicately spiced curry. The children’s

menu includes some nostalgic favour-

ites, such as lightly boiled eggs with toast

soldiers for dipping. This is the original

branch of a successful small local chain.

T eh one i rnanTe Tional $

Map p218 (Jumeirah rd, near Jumeirah Mosque,

Jumeirah 1; dishes Dh20-45; h9am-9pm) Deli

dabblers will be in salad and sandwich

heaven at this stylish outpost upstairs at

THE One home design store. All food is

freshly prepared and calibrated to health-

and waist-watchers without sacrificing a

lick to the taste gods. Reliable choices in-

clude the smoked salmon wrap and the

Arabic chicken salad. A good alternative if

Lime Tree Cafe is full.

raVi p ki aSTani $

Map p218 (al-Satwa rd, Satwa; mains Dh15-20;

h24hr) Everyone from cabbies to five-star

chefs flock to this legendary Pakistani ea-

tery (dating from 1978) where you eat like

a prince and pay like a pauper. Loosen that

belt for helpings of spicy curries, succulent

grilled meats, creamy dahl (lentils) and

fresh, buttery naan. Be prepared for the no-

frills dining room or, better still, wait for an

outside table to watch Satwa on parade.

r dan aMa life

For visitors interested in Islam or

religion in general, Ramadan is a

fascinating time to visit Dubai� If you

walk the backstreets of Jumeirah

areas such as Satwa, you’ll see

mosques with mats and carpets

laid out with food ready for mosque

attendees, and witness the streets

come to life – well into the wee hours�

Jumeirah

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