Lonely Planet

TOP PICKSThe City by the Bay draws on California’sDPSOHIDUPODQGWKHZDWHUVRIWKH3DFLÀFand food traditions from all compass points.We’ve picked the best and most up-to-dateplaces to eat out, from casual pit-stops todestination dining, with a special section onfab restaurants you can reach by cable-car.``````Cotogna gives Italianflavours a Californian spinCOMPILED BY RORY GOULDING, WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM ALISON BING AND JOHN A VLAHIDES. PHOTOGRAPHS: BONJWING LEE, MICHAEL BURRELL/ALAMYOctober 2017 Lonely Planet Traveller 123Eating inSan FranciscoCHEAP EATSCity View DIM SUM £(cityviewdimsum.com; 662Commercial St)Take a seat in the sunny diningroom and make way for cartsloaded with delicate shrimp andleek dumplings, garlicky Chinesebroccoli, tangy spareribs, coco-nut-dusted custard tarts andother tantalising dim sum. Comebefore the midday rush to nabseats in the upstairs room.``````Golden Boy PIZZA £(goldenboypizza.com;542 Green St)Looking for the ultimate post-bar-crawl or morning-after slice?Here you’re golden. Since 1978,the Sodini family pizzaioli (pizzamakers) have perfected Geno-vese-style focaccia-crust pizza,``````achieving that mystical meanbetween chewy and crunchy withthe ideal amount of olive oil. Gofor Genovese toppings like clamand garlic or pesto, and bliss outwith hot slices and draft beer atthe tin-shed counter.``````La Palma MexicatessenMEXICAN £(lapalmasf.com; 2884 24th St)Follow the applause: that’s thesound of organic tortilla-makingin progress. La Palma is theMission mother lode of hand-made tamales, pupusas (tortillapockets) with potato and chichar-ones (pork crackling), carnitas(slow-roasted pork), cotija (Oa xa-can cheese) and tangy tomatillosauce. Get takeout, or bring aVPDOODUP\WRÀQLVKWKDWPDVVLYHmeal at sunny sidewalk tables.``````La Taqueria MEXICAN £(00 1 415 285 7117;2889 Mission St)6)·VGHÀQLWLYHEXUULWRKDVQRVDՖURQULFHVSLQDFKWRUWLOODRUmango salsa – just perfectly grilledmeats, slow-cooked beans andtomatillo or mesquite salsa allZUDSSHGLQDÁRXUWRUWLOODThey’re purists at James BeardAward-winning La Taqueria –you’ll pay extra to go withoutbeans, because they add moremeat, but spicy pickles and crema(sour cream) bring burrito bliss.Wor th the wait, always.``````Revenge Pies DESSERTS £(revengepies.com; 1248 9th Ave)Living well is only the second-best revenge – a face full of pecanRevenge Pie is far more satisfy-ing. Here is the compensationfor every skimpy à la mode pieVHUYLQJ\RX·YHVXՖHUHGWKURXJKpicecream (homemade frozenFXVWDUGHPEHGGHGZLWKÁDNHVRIbuttery pie crust). The chocolate-DOPRQG5HYHQJHSLHLVDVXUHÀUHcrowd-pleaser – but the key-limepicecream could make, break andremake friendships.``````Tout Sweet BAKERY £(toutsweetsf.com; Macy’s, 3rd fl,cnr Geary & Stockton Sts)Mango with Thai chili or peanutbutter and jelly? Choosing yourfavorite California-French maca-ron isn’t easy at Tout Sweet, whereTop Chef Just Desserts championYigit Pura keeps outdoing his owninventions – he’s like the lovechild of Julia Child and SteveJobs. Chef Pura’s sweet retreat on0DF\·VUGÁRRURՖHUVXQEHDWDEOHviews overlooking Union Square,H[FHOOHQWWHDVDQGIUHHZLÀ``````MID-RANGE MEALSAl’s PlaceCALIFORNIAN ££(alsplacesf.com; 1499 Valencia St)The Golden State dazzles on Al’splates, featuring homegrownheirloom ingredients, pristine3DFLÀFVHDIRRGDQGJUDVVIHGmeat on the side. Painstakingpreparation yields sun-drenchedÁDYRUVDQGH[TXLVLWHWH[WXUHVcrispy-skin cod with frothy pre-served-lime dip, grilled peachmelting into velvety foie gras.Dishes are half the size butWKULFHWKHÁDYRXURIPDLQVHOVH-where – get two or three, andyou’ll be California dreaming.``````Cotogna ITALIAN ££(cotognasf.com; 490 Pacific Ave)Chef-owner Michael Tusk racksup James Beard Awards for aquintessentially Italian culinarybalancing act: he strikes idealproportions among a few pristineÁDYRUVLQUXVWLFSDVWDVZRRG-ÀUHGSL]]DVDQGVDOWFUXVWHGbranzino. Reserve, especially forfour-course Sunday suppers withwine pairings – or plan a walk-inlate lunch/early dinner. There’salso a top-value Italian wine list``````Liholiho Yacht ClubHAWAIIAN ££(lycsf.com; 871 Sutter St)Who needs yachts to be happy?Aloha abounds over Liholiho’spucker-up-tart cocktails andgleefully creative Calwaiian/Hawafornian dishes – foolproof-mood-enhancers include spicybeef-tongue bao buns, duck-livermousse with pickled pineappleon brioche, and Vietnamese slawLocal knowledgeTogether, tax and tip add25 – 35 per cent to restaurantbills. SF follows the US tippingstandard: 20–25 per cent isgenerous; 15 per cent is theminimum, unless somethingwent horribly wrong with theservice you received. More SFrestaurants are now charginga flat 20 per cent service fee,especially for large parties,even though diners may balkat having tipping decisionsmade for them. Restaurantsargue that the flat fee helpsguarantee a living wage tostaff in the notoriously priceyBay Area. Some restaurantstack on a 4 per cent surchargeto cover the cost of providinghealth care to employees,as required by SF law.