Lonely Planet

TOP PICKSTOP PICKS124 Lonely Planet Traveller October 2017``````with tender squid and crispytripe. Reservations open 30 daysprior; alternatively, arrive earlyor late for bar dining, or headdownstairs to Louie’s Gen-GenRoom speakeasy for shamelesslyWDVW\ERQHPDUURZEXWWHUZDHV``````Mister Jiu’s CHINESE ££(misterjius.com; 28 Waverly Pl)Ever since the Gold Rush of1848–1855 turbo-charged thecity, San Francisco has cravedChinese food, powerful cocktailsand hyper-local specialities – and0LVWHU-LX·VVDWLVÀHVRQDOOWKHVHcounts. Build your own banquetmade of Chinese classics withCalifornia twists: chanterellechow mein, Dungeness crab riceQRRGOHVTXDLODQG0LVVLRQÀJsticky rice. Cocktail pairings areequally inspired – try jasmine-infused-gin Happiness with tea-VPRNHG6RQRPDGXFNFRQÀW``````Serpentine CALIFORNIAN ££(serpentinesf.com; 2495 3rd St)The best brunch you’ll ever haveinside an old factory boiler room- or, really, anywhere in SanFrancisco – is the Dungeness crabBenedict at Serpentine, withextra-frothy hollandaise sauceand audaciously fried lemon andcapers, served in a lofty convertedtin-can factory. Chef DeepakKaul ditched medical school tomaster precision spicing; now hisancho-chile osso bucco will curewhatever ails you.F I N E D I N I N GBenu FUSION £££(benusf.com; 22 Hawthorne St)SF has pioneered Asian fusioncuisine for 150 years, but theSDQ3DFLÀFLQQRYDWLRQFKHIowner Corey Lee brings to theplate is gasp-inducing: foie-grassoup dumplings – what?! Dunge-QHVVFUDEDQGWUXHFXVWDUGSDFNVXFKRXWVL]HÁDYRXULQWR/HH·VIDX[²VKDUN·VÀQVRXS\RX·OOswear Jaws is in there. Benu din-ners are investments, but don’tmiss star sommelier Yoon Ha’singenious pairings.``````Cala MEXICAN £££(calarestaurant.com; 149 Fell St)Like discovering a long-losttwin, Cala’s Mexico Norte cuisineis a revelation. The Mexican-rancher roots of San Francisco``````are deeply honoured here: silkybone-marrow salsa and fragrantheritage-corn tortillas grace asweet potato slow-cooked inashes. Brace yourself with a fewmezcal margaritas for the ulti-mate California surf and turf: seaurchin with beef tongue. Originaland unforgettable, even beforeMayan-chocolate gelato withamaranth brittle.``````In Situ INTERNATIONAL £££(insitu.sfmoma.org; SFMOMA,151 3rd St)The landmark gallery of moderncuisine attached to SFMOMAalso showcases avant-gardemasterpieces – but these onesyou can lick clean. Chef CoreyLee collaborates with star chefsworldwide, scrupulously recreat-ing their signature dishes withCalifornia-grown ingredients sothat you can enjoy HaraldWohlfahrt’s impeccable anise-marinated salmon, HiroshiSasaki’s decadent chicken thighsand Albert Adrìa’s gravity-defying cocoa-bubble cake all inone unforgettable sitting.``````Rich Table CALIFORNIAN £££(richtablesf.com; 199 Gough St)Impossible cravings begin atRich Table, the launchpad forporcini doughnuts, miso-marrow-VWXՖHGSDVWDDQGIULHGFKLFNHQmadeleines with caviar. Marriedco-chefs and owners SarahDQG(YDQ5LFKSOD\IXOO\ULՖRQseasonal local produce, free-VW\OLQJZLWKZKLPVLFDORՖPHQXamuse-bouches like trippy beetmarshmallows or the DirtyHippie: nutty hemp atop silkygoat-buttermilk pannacotta, asRՖEHDWDQGHQWUDQFLQJDV+LSSLHHill drum circles.``````Wako SUSHI £££(sushiwakosf.com; 211 Clement St)Tiny yet mighty in fascination,this driftwood-panelled bistrofrom chef Tomoharu Nakamurais as quirkily San Franciscan asthe bonsai grove at the nearbyJapanese Tea Garden. Eachomakase (chef’s choice) dish is aminiature marvel of Japaneseseafood with a California accent- Santa Cruz abalone nigiri,seared tuna belly with Californiacaviar, crab mushimono withyuzu grown by a neighbour.MARKETS AND MOREFerry Plaza Farmers MarketMARKET £(cuesa.org; cnr Market St & theEmbarcadero)The pride and joy of SF, the FerryBuilding market showcases 50 to100 prime purveyors of organicCalifornian produce, pasture-raised meat and gourmet pre-pared foods at accessible prices.On Saturdays, join top chefsearly for prime browsing, andstay for eclectic Bay-side picnicsof Namu Korean tacos, RoliRotiporchetta, Dirty Girl tomatoes,Nicasio cheese samples, andFrog Hollow fruit turnovers.``````Mission Community MarketMARKET £(missioncommunitymarket.org;Bartlett St, btwn 21st & 22nd Sts)Back-alley bounty brings raven-RXVFURZGVWRWKLVQRQSURÀWneighborhood-run market onThursdays, come rain or shine.More than 30 local farmers andIRRGDUWLVDQVRՖHU&DOLIRUQLDproduce and inspired SF streetfood – look for Coastside Farms’smoked albacore, TomateroFarms’ heirloom green-zebratomatoes, Flour Chylde pastriesand Chaac Mool’s cochinita pibil(slow-roasted pork). Enjoy shade,seating and mariachis at mural-lined La Placita.``````Outstanding in the FieldPOP-UP £££(outstandinginthefield.com)Dinners with guest-star chefslike Alice Waters and this BayArea-based crew pop up in theunlikeliest of places – strawberryÀHOGVVHDFDYHVVDQGEDUV²WRbring diners to the source oftheir food.``````SoMa StrEat Food ParkFOOD TRUCKS £(somastreatfoodpark.com; 42811th St)Your posse is hungry, but one ofyou is vegan, another demandstacos with beer, and anothercraves Korean fried chicken. Sowhat do you do? First: recognisethat you and your friends belongin San Francisco. Second: headto this SoMa parking lot, wheregourmet food trucks will satisfyyour every whim. The area getssketchy – mind your wallet.LocalknowledgeSeven HIlls (sevenhillssf.com;1550 Hyde St)Anthony Florian studied withgreat chefs of California and Italy,and he’s expert at taking severalseasonal ingredients and makingthem shine. His short, market-driven menu features house-made pastas with elements likerabbit and house-cured pancetta.The four mains showcase qualityCalifornia meats. Tables are closein the elegant little storefront,but brilliant sound-cancellingtechnology eliminates noise.Stellar service, too.``````Stones Throw (stonesthrowsf.com; 1896 Hyde St)This New American storefrontbistro has great service (staffare alums of some of SF’s tophouses) and, in keeping with thelatest style, no one dresses up.It’s famous for Sunday brunch- yum, those mimosas andlavender-glazed doughnuts! –but it’s great at dinner, too, whendishes include standout duck-liver paté with warm pretzels,and squid-ink pasta. Alas, theroom’s loud.Union Larder (unionlarder.com;1945 Hyde St)Part wine bar, part restaurant,Union Larder’s sexy industrialdesign features walls of backlitbottles rising to the ceiling andenormous vaulted windowsoverlooking the cable-car line.The short, diverse menu featuresoysters, charcuterie (someRestaurantson the cable-car lineFor a romantic, only-in-SFnight on the town, book a tableat one of several cosy neigh-bourhood restaurants alongthe cable-car lines on Nob Hillor Russian Hill. Make reserva-tions where possible, and leaveplenty of time for transport –cable-car service can be erratic.If you’re running late, taxithere, cable home. Just makesure you board the correct line,going in the right direction.