sun-soaked zins at the
Lodi Wine & Visitor
Center (www.lodiwine.com;
2545 W Turner Rd; tastings
$5; h10am-5pm), where
100 local vintages are
sold by the glass at the
tasting bar. Another stop,
where you can sip the
region’s boutique wines
and sample experimental
labels by more famous
names, is the Italian-
style Vino Piazza. Park
the car, order a bistro
lunch and amble between
tasting rooms.
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The Drive » Before leaving
Lodi, make a circuit of its small
but developing wine region –
there’s a map available at
the visitor center. Follow Hwy
99 south through the valley,
passing Stockton along the way.
You’ll reach Turlock in one hour.
3 Turlock
Turlock is a city that’s
become a kind of Grand
Central Station of
Central Valley’s cattle
trade. Turlock is tiny,
so it isn’t hard to spot
the stockyards near
the center of town,
where livestock options
happen daily. A quick
jog south on Rte 165
approaches the Hilmar
Cheese Factory (www.
hilmarcheese.com; 9001
North Lander Avenue, Hilmar;
admission free; h7am-7pm
Mon-Sun; c). Aptly on
scale with the agri-
industry of the valley,
it is the largest cheese-
manufacturing site in
the world, processing
a million pounds of
cheese a day. The product
isn’t gourmet (many of
those million pounds
are simple varieties of
cheddar or jack); the
stars of the expansive
visitors center are
‘Squeakers,’ young curds
of cheese with a texture
that squeaks as you chew
them. A robotic cheese-
making exhibit led by
an animated Jersey cow,
Daisy, is likely to thrill
kids and creep out their
parents.
The Drive » Leaving Turlock
you’ll get a glimpse of the
California Aquaduct, which
diverts the Sierra snowmelt to
these farms. You’ll also pass
Chowchilla, which translates as
‘murderers’ in native Chauchila.
Appropriate, since the town
is the site of two correctional
facilities. The drive to Selma is
about one hour and 20 minutes.
4 Selma
To taste more fresh
goods, travel another
hour and a half down
Hwy 99 to Selma (the
‘Raisin Capital of the
World’), where you’ll find
the Circle K Ranch (www.
circlekranch.com; 8640 E
Manning Ave, Selma; h8am-
6pm Mon-Sat; c) just east
of the highway amid
orchards of peaches,
plums and nectarines.
The store has seasonal
fruits and nuts from May
to November, but the best
deals are in the adjacent
packing house, where,
aided by some passable
Spanish, it’s possible
to barter for a few
bushels of freshly picked
goods for a fraction of
supermarket price.
KINGS OF BAKERSFIELD SOUND
Driving down Hwy 99 requires getting on a first-
name basis with Bakersfield’s two drawling titans:
Merle and Buck. Masters of twanging Telecasters
and hayseed heartbreak, they’re the country kings
of the Central Valley.
» I’m Gonna Break Every Heart I Can – Merle
Haggard
» I’ve Got a Tiger by the Tail – Buck Owens
» Okie from Muskogee – Merle Haggard
» Second Fiddle – Buck Owens
» The Bottle Let Me Down – Merle Haggard
» Under Your Spell Again – Buck Owens
» Swinging Doors – Merle Haggard
» The Streets of Bakersfield – Buck Owens and
Dwight Yoakam
CENTRAL.CALIFORNIA.
25
(^) HIGHWAY 99 THROUGH CENTRAL VALLEY