them together with the sauce ingredients into a sort of hot
salad that’s decorous enough to consume with impunity in
mixed company.
I tend to make esquites when I don’t want to bother
firing up the grill, because truth be told, it’s just as tasty
and easy to make indoors as it is out. The key for cooking
esquites indoors is to remove the kernels from the cobs
before you cook them, then cook them in a ripping-hot
wok (you can use a skillet, though it’s a bit messier),
letting them sit in place until the sugars caramelize and
you get a deep, dark char before tossing and letting them
char again. When it’s done right, a few kernels will jump
and pop just like popcorn. I’ve had kernels leap clear
across the kitchen on occasion. A careful eye and a
splatter guard will protect you from any corn-kernel
mortar fire.
Once the corn is charred, toss it, still hot, with the
remaining ingredients. It can be served straightaway, but
it is just as good at room temperature, making it an ideal
picnic dish.