The Food Lab: Better Home Cooking Through Science

(Nandana) #1

THE ULTIMATE


QUINTUPLE-COOKED


THICK AND CRISP


STEAK FRIES


I’ve never been a fan of steak fries. The ratio of crisp
crust to fluffy interior is all off for me. I like that crunchy,
slightly greasy crust, and with a thick steak fry, you get
so little of it compared to the vast expanse of relatively
bland interior. But what if there were a way to increase
the crispness of the exterior? To build up a crust even
more substantial than with my regular thin and crispy
fries?
Here’s a thought: if double-frying fries gives them a
nice thick crust, would triple-frying or even quadruple-
frying improve them even more? Only one way to find
out. I made several batches of thick-cut fries (I’m talking
½ inch thick), using my thin-and-crispy fry technique as
the baseline. The first batch I made exactly according to
the directions. For the second, I fried them once at 360°F
for 50 seconds and allowed them to cool, then fried them
again for another 50 seconds and allowed them to cool,
and finally fried them a third time until completely crisp
and golden brown. For the third and fourth batches, I

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