increased the total number of frying stages to four and
five respectively.¶ ¶ ¶ Turns out that indeed you can
increase the crispness of a fry with repeated fryings.
See, with each stage of the fry, you burst more and
more starch granules. The starch molecules fly out and
gelatinize when they come in contact with water from the
potato. Subsequent cooling allows those gelatinized
starches to recrystallize, in effect staling like old bread
(see “Drying Versus Staling,” here). With repeated
fryings, these layers of crystallized starches build up into
a substantial layer. Cooling the potatoes between fries
also prevents them from overbrowning with each
subsequent fry. Only during the very last fry do you leave
them in the oil long enough that the
gelatinized/crystallized starch layers are fully dehydrated,
rendering them crisp and golden brown.
I’m not going to lie: these fries are a pain in the butt to
make. They are a project, and you’ve got to devote a
significant amount of time to them. But man, are they
killer. This is a path you don’t want to start down unless
you are prepared to be eternally spoiled for regular
French fries. You’ve been warned.
NOTES: For best results, it’s imperative that you use an
accurate instant-read thermometer and timer during
frying. After the optional freezing in step 3, the fries can
be stored in a zipper-lock freezer bag in the freezer for up
to 2 months; cook them directly from frozen, as in step 4.
Peanut oil is the best oil for deep-frying, but canola,
vegetable oil, or shortening will work as well (see “All