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at the western end of the bay, this is a very
appealing top-end option. The 13 raised cot-
tages have Hindu accents and nice porches
with views. There’s a pleasant fresh-water
swimming pool and stunning views from the
restaurant.5 ating & DrinkingE
Numerous cafes set up plastic tables and
chairs right up to the tide day and night. Wan-
der and compare which one has the freshest
seafood. All are good for a beer (invariably
served to a reggae and rock soundtrack).oNo1 Dewmini Roti Shop SR i lANKAN $
(off Galle-Matara Rd; meals from Rs 200; h8am-
9pm) The original and still the best local rotti
shop. It also produces kotthus (rotti chopped
up and mixed with vegies) and delicious, more
substantial rice and curry–style dishes – don’t
miss the pumpkin. The ever-smiling chef and
owner offers cooking classes (Rs 2000 for six
curries). It’s 200m inland past the Amarasin-
ghe Guest House.8 Getting There & Away
The bus fare from Weligama is Rs 15; a
three-wheeler costs Rs 350. From Matara the
bus fare is Rs 25. if you’re heading to Colombo,
it’s better to catch a bus to Matara and change,
as many buses will be full by the time they pass
through Mirissa.Matara
%041 / POPULATION 69,300
Matara is a busy, booming and sprawling
commercial town that owes almost nothing
to tourism – which makes it a fascinating
window on modern Sri Lankan life. Matara’s
main attractions are its ramparts, a well-
preserved Dutch fort and, most of all, its
street life.1 Sights
You can spend half a day wandering Matara.
The long strip of beach along Sea Beach Rd
is somewhat tatty, commercial and missable.oDutch Rampart hiSTORiC SiTe
(off Main St) The smallish Dutch rampart oc-
cupies the promontory separating the Nil-
wala Ganga from the sea. Built in the 18th
century to protect the VOC’s kachcheri (ad-
ministrative office), its structure is a little
peculiar – it was originally meant to be afort, but accountants, with their pesky cost-
cutting exercises, dictated otherwise.
Inside the rampart are quiet vestiges of old
Matara. Wander the narrow streets and you’ll
see the odd colonial gem. The river bank at
the west corner is serene; see if you can spot
one of the rumoured crocodiles.oStar Fort FORT
(Main St; h10am-5pm) About 350m from the
main rampart gate, Star Fort was built by the
Dutch to compensate for deficiencies in the
rampart. However, it’s so small it could only
have protected a handful of bureaucrats. The
construction date (1765) is embossed over the
main gate, along with the VOC company in-
signia and the coat of arms of the governor
of the day.
Look for the two carved lions that guard
the entrance gates. You can also spot the slots
that once secured the drawbridge beams.Parey Dewa BUDDhiST
(off Sea Beach Rd) A pedestrian bridge near
the bus station leads to a small island, Par-
ey Dewa (Rock in Water), which is home to
a tiny Buddhist temple with a very fancy
modern bridge leading out to it. The beach
on which it sits is a great place to go for an
evening walk and enjoy an ice cream with
many of the town folk.Polhena Beach B eACh
(Polhena Rd) The best beach in the area is
hugely popular with locals at weekends who
rent goofy inflatable toys and frolic in the
surf. It’s just west of town.Weherahena Temple BUDDhiST
(Weherahena Rd; admission by donation; hdawn-
dusk) On the east side of Matara, turn inland
1km off the main road for this gaudy temple
that features an artificial cave decorated with
about 200 cartoon-like scenes from the Bud-
dha’s life. There’s also a huge Buddha statue.
During the late-November or early Decem-
ber poya, a perahera (procession) of dancers
and elephants is held at the temple to cele-
brate the anniversary of its founding.4 Sleeping
Southwest of the centre, beachy Polhena has
a number of budget guesthouses scattered
amidst the warren of small tracks; you may
need to ask for directions. A three-wheeler
from central Matara costs Rs 350. Otherwise,
Mirissa is just 9km west.