sri-lanka-13-full-pdf-ebook.pdf

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end of the dry season (March to April) is the
best time to visit, as during and after the rains
the animals disperse over a wide area.
As well as herds of wildlife, Yala contains
the remains of a once-thriving human com-
munity. A monastic settlement, Situlpahuwa,
appears to have housed 12,000 inhabitants.
Now restored, it’s an important pilgrim-
age site. A 1st-century BC vihara (Buddhist
complex), Magul Maha Vihara, and a 2nd-
century BC chetiya (Buddhist shrine), Akasa
Chetiya, point to a well-established commu-
nity, believed to have been part of the ancient
Ruhunu kingdom.
Yala is a very popular park: there were over
330,000 visitors in 2013, a number that grows
each year. At times jeeps can mimic a pack of
jackals in their pursuit of wildlife. It’s a good
idea to discuss with your driver and/or guide
where you can go to get away from the human
herd. Be sure, however, to make time for the
park’s visitor centre at the western entrance.
It has excellent displays about the park and a
good bookstore.

4 Sleeping

There has been no accommodation inside the

park since the 2004 tsunami. However, there

are several top-end resorts off the 12km road

that runs into the park from Yala Jct; some

are on the long untrodden beach.

One way you can sleep inside the park is

on an organised camping trip. These can be

arranged with guides, as part of a package

with a local guesthouse or simply by reserv-

ing space in one of the often-luxurious camp-

grounds. One good organiser is Nandika

(%077 975 3203; [email protected]; camping

packages from Rs 38,000 for two people), a long-

time guide who provides tours, a BBQ dinner,

breakfast, a tent and more. For extra fees, you

can get a tent that has its own attached pri-

vate toilet. Another option is a night in a tree-

house (from Rs 22,000 for two), where you

can spot animals wandering below.

Cinnamon Wild Yala lODGe $$$

(%047-223 9449; http://www.cinnamonhotels.com; r

US$130-200; aiWs) (^) S Near the park

NATIONAL PARK TOUR ESSENTIALS

Tours of Yala and Bundala National Parks are by jeep. Most people opt for half-day tours that

start with a Tissa hotel pick-up at 5.30am followed by a one-hour drive to the park for a dawn

start. You are usually back by 11am. Dusk tours run about 3pm to 7pm. Full day tours run

5.30am to 5pm and include stops at beaches and other sights.

You can arrange for drivers at your accommodation, at the Independent Jeep Associ-

ation car park by the lake or at the park entrances. Expect operators to find you as they look

for business. Standards between the jeeps vary greatly, although almost all are open-sided,

with a high roof for shade. Broadly, the operators and their jeeps fall into three groups:

Normal Often very old vehicles, these often have inward-facing seats along the sides which is

very bad for animal spotting. Rates average Rs 4500 per half-day.

Luxury Usually three rows of two forward-facing seats that are stepped up towards the back so

you can see over the heads of those in front of you. The seats may be worn or in a few cases

broken. Rates average Rs 5000 per half-day.

Super Luxury The newest jeeps are usually Range Rovers or Toyotas and have two or three rows

of comfortable seats. Rates average Rs 5500 per half-day.

The differences between luxury and super luxury can be minor; the most important con-

sideration is that the jeep is in good shape (new models have better suspensions which

are essential as you go racing across the countryside) and that the seats are comfortable.

Avoid any jeep with middle seats. Shop around as prices are negotiable. Other consider-

ations:

̈ (^) Are the services of a guide included? This is not always necessary as many of the drivers are
very good at animal-spotting. You will also usually be offered the services of a tracker inside the
park; these guys work for tips (for a half-day tour, tip the driver and any guide Rs 500 each).
̈ (^) Does your prospective driver seem in a rush? One common complaint is about drivers who zip
across the countryside reducing the tour to a gut-wrenching blur.
̈ (^) Does the driver provide binoculars? Also ask about water and snacks.
̈ Hoping for tips, drivers aim to please, perhaps too much so. The merest hint of a large animal
can spark a stampede of jeeps. You can do your part to keep things calm by asking your driver to
refrain from madcap chases. The resulting quiet is more conducive for spotting anyway.