sri-lanka-13-full-pdf-ebook.pdf

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entrance, this lodge run by the noted Cinna-

mon hotel group offers the ultimate in bush-

chic accommodation. Rooms are in individ-

ual luxe bungalows. The hotel runs on solar

power, some of the waste water is recycled

and there’s a tree-planting scheme. At night

elephants often wander through the grounds.

Breakfast and full-board options are available.

Jetwing Yala R eSORT $$$

(%047-471 0710; http://www.jetwinghotels.com; r US$100-

200) Only 4km from the park entrance, this

posh new resort is set amidst the dunes near

the beach. What the modern design lacks in

character, the staff make up for in service. Ar-

range for a sunset picnic for two on the beach

or go wild with all the animal spotting you

can schedule.

8 Information

The entrance fees for Yala National Park (adult /

child US$15/8, jeep & tracker Rs 250, service

charge per group US$8, plus overall tax 12%;

h5.30am-6pm mid-Oct–Aug) are payable at the

main office, which is near the west entrance. The

only practical way to visit the park is as part of a

tour or safari (see p 139 ).

8 Getting There & Away

The drive to Yala National Park takes about one

hour (due to road conditions) whether you take the

22km route via Yala Jct from Tissa, or a somewhat

shorter road past some remote and pretty lakes.

Kataragama

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Sheltered in the foothills 15km northeast of

Tissa is Kataragama. This most holy of towns

is a compelling mix of pomp and procession,

piety and religious extravagance. Along with

Adam’s Peak (Sri Pada), this is the most im-

portant religious pilgrimage site in Sri Lanka

and is a holy place for Buddhists, Muslims

and Hindus alike. It is one of those wonderful

places where the most outlandish of legends

becomes fact and magic floats in clouds of in-

cense. Many believe that King Dutugemunu

built a shrine to Kataragama Deviyo (the resi-

dent god) here in the 2nd century BC, and that

the Buddhist Kirivehera dagoba dates back to

the 1st century BC, but the site is thought to

have been significant for even longer.

In July and August, the predominantly

Hindu Kataragama festival draws thou-

sands of devotees who make the pilgrimage

over a two-week period. Apart from festival

time, the town is busiest at weekends and on

poya days. At these times it may be difficult

to find accommodation, and the place will be

buzzing; at other times it possesses a tranquil-

lity befitting its sacred status. It’s easily visited

from Tissa.

1 Sights

The sacred precinct is set on the other side

of Menik Ganga, a chocolate-coloured river in

which pilgrims wash themselves before con-

tinuing towards the shrines. The site’s wide

promenades are lined with grey monkeys

always on the lookout for a handout – or a

dropped personal item.

Shrines ReliGiOUS

The most important shrine, Maha Devale,

features the lance of the six-faced, 12-armed

Hindu war god, Murugan (Skanda), who is

seen as identical to the Kataragama Deviyo.

Followers make offerings at daily puja at

4.30am, 10.30am and 6.30pm (no 4.30am of-

fering on Saturdays). Outside this shrine are

two large boulders, against which pilgrims

smash burning coconuts while muttering a

prayer.

The Kirivehara dagoba and Sivam Kovil

shrines are dedicated to the Buddha and Ga-

nesh (the remover of obstacles and champion

of intellectual pursuits) respectively; there is

also a bodhi tree.

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DMandara Rosen (2.7km);

Tissamaharama (18km)