sri-lanka-13-full-pdf-ebook.pdf

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rave reviews thanks to the kindness and
cooking (most meals Rs 300 to 550) of own-
er Dilani. Of the cabanas, the one on stilts
is best, with million-dollar views shining
through seashell garlands. Rooms have min-
imal solar-powered electricity (lights only),
and bathrooms are outside under the trees.
They have a dongle for internet use,
which guests can borrow.

Lighthouse CABANA $
(%075 283 5544; http://www.arugambaybeachhut.
com/lighthouse; cabanas rs 2000-4000) New
in 2012, these eight rustic cabanas sit easy
in their rural surrounds right by the break.
Kanthan, the owner, worked at Beach Hut
in Arugam Bay for years, and is well versed
to travellers’ needs, preparing great local
food (meals from Rs 250). It’s solar pow-
ered, and there are often yoga classes dur-
ing the main season.

S outh of Arugam Bay

Arugam Bay to Panama

Kilometres of untouched sandy beach-
es stretch south of Arugam Bay. Close-by
surf points, reached via the coast road, in-
clude Crocodile Rock (Rs 500 return by
three-wheeler), Elephant Rock (Rs 800)
and Peanut Farm (around Rs 1000). The
road to Panama stays somewhat inland
but intersects with lagoons where you can
spot waterfowl, wading birds, water buf-
falo and even elephants. It’s a beautiful,
savannah-like landscape.
Panama (12km south of Arugam Bay)
is a farming village with an end-of-the-
world atmosphere, whose only sights are
an attractive white dagoba and a stunning,
untouched (but shade-free) sandy beach a
kilometre east of town. If there’s heavy seas,
swimming is usually unsafe (and surfers
won’t have any joy on these dumpy shore
breaks). At the northern end of the beach,
close to the jellyfish-processing plant
( jellyfish are sent to the Far East for use in
cooking), is a fairly lame right-point break
that is good for novice surfers. Arugam Bay
three-wheelers charge Rs 1500 return, or
you can wait for a rare bus.

Panama to Okanda

The superb 47-sq-km site of Kudimbigala
Forest Hermitage is a jumble of forgotten

Sigiriya-style outcrops set in dense jungle.

Over 200 shrines and hermits’ lodgings are

set in caves or sealed rocky overhangs and

six Buddhist monks still live here. While

none is individually especially interesting,

the atmosphere is fantastic and the dagoba-

topped summit of the highest rock offers

vast panoramas across the eccentric land-

scape and forest canopy. There are glimpses

of lagoon and sandbars towards the shore,

and the far southwestern horizon is dis-

tantly serrated by the spiky Weliara Ridge.

Kudimbagala is usually visited along with

Kumana or Okanda; three-wheelers charge

Rs 2500 return (prepare yourself for the

rough dirt track). As this is an active hermit-

age, quiet and modest dress are requested.

The Arugam–Okanda road ends at the en-

try gate for Kumana National Park. Immedi-

ately east of the gate is Okanda, a seasonal

settlement for local fishermen and home to

the Okanda Sri Murugan Kovil. Though

relatively small, the main temple has a col-

ourful gopuram (gateway tower) and is a

major point on the Pada Yatra pilgrimage to

Kataragama. Thousands of pilgrims gather

here during the two weeks before the July

poya (full moon) before attempting the

last, and most dangerous, five-day leg of

the 45-day trek from Jaffna. The temple is

of great spiritual importance as it marks the

supposed point at which Murugan (Skanda)

and his consort Valli arrived in Sri Lanka on

stone boats.

Just five minutes’ walk from the temple is

a sweeping beige-white beach with an excel-

lent right-point break, popular with surfers

fleeing the crowds at Arugam Bay.

Kumana National Park &

Kumana Reserve

This 357-sq-km park (%063-363 5867; adult

Us$12, plus per jeep rs 250, service charge per

group Us$8, VAT 12%; h6am-6.30pm), often

still referred to by its old name, Yala East,

is much less frequently visited than its busy

neighbour, Yala National Park. Consequent-

ly, it’s a far less ‘zoolike’ experience and it

never feels too crowded here, even during

high season. Yes, the density of animals is

lower but it’s not rare to spot a leopard,

along with elephants, crocodiles and turtles,

white cobras, wild buffalo and tons of birds.

About a dozen bears live in the park, but

they’re rarely seen.

The park’s best-known feature is the

200-hectare Kumana bird reserve, an