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ornithologically rich mangrove swamp 22km
beyond Okanda. May to June is nesting sea-
son. There have been sightings of Sri Lanka’s
very rare black-necked stork, but more com-
monly spotted, even outside the bird reserve,
are Malabar pied hornbills, green bee-eaters,
blade-headed orioles and painted storks,
among others. Watchtowers provide a terrif-
ic perspective for birdwatchers. Visitors reg-
ularly report seeing dozens of peacocks here.
Entry fees are myriad, and can really add
up. A mandatory guide (who may not speak
English) accompanies each vehicle. Guest-
houses in Arugam Bay can help arrange for
a jeep and driver; the going rate is around
Rs 10,000 per day. (It’s not as expensive as it
seems given the park’s rough roads.) Guide
Siddiq (%077 481 7774) gets rave reviews for
animal-spotting.
You can arrange camping trips within
the park, which allow you to watch animals
at dusk and dawn – the two best times.
For this, the algorithm becomes even more
complicated: US$20 per person, US$27 per
group, Rs 250 per jeep, plus 12% tax.
Drivers in Arugam Bay charge US$300
for two people, which includes the trans-
port, evening and morning safaris, equip-
ment and meals. Aliya (www.aliyasafari.com),
very professional safari specialists based
near Buttala, are strongly recommended.
Ampara
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Laid-back Ampara sits in the midst of
countryside dappled with paddy fields, lakes
and palm groves. Though the town itselfwon’t hold you, the area has a couple of low-
key sights.1 Sights
Japanese Peace Pagoda BUDDhisT
( sama Chaitya) This pagoda, 4km west of
town, is a graceful stupa with a twist or two,
including a vaguely Roman-looking colon-
nade ringing its lower level. Niches con-
taining gilded Buddhas contrast superbly
with the whitewashed body of the temple.
The incense-smoked image room near the
entrance, with its Buddha statues and col-
ourful altar, is also fascinating, especially
when the friendly resident monk and nun
are drumming and chanting.
The main reason for coming here, though,
is the chance of seeing herds of passing wild
elephants, but they’ve been shy in recent
years and don’t come by like they used to.
Try your luck: at around 5pm to 6pm, the
elephants may pass through a narrow pas-
sageway in front of the pagoda, or in the
field behind it. Birdwatchers will also find
the pagoda platform a handy perch for spot-
ting hundreds of waterbirds that flit about
the facing lake.
To reach the temple follow DS Senanay-
ake Rd from the clock tower, which heads
towards Inginyagala, passing scenic Ampara
Tank. After 4km, a short right turn brings
you to the pagoda.Sri Manika Pillaiyar hiNDU
(inginyagala rd) The Sri Manika Pillaiyar,
which boasts an array of Hindu statuary
illuminated by fairy lights, gives Ganesh a
lovely view across Ampara Tank.MAGUL MAHA VIHARA & AROUND
About 12km west of Pottuvil lies this evocative 5th-century-BC ruin, set in a peaceful
forested spot. Built by King Dhatusena (473–453 BC), the site was probably part of a roy-
al compound. At the foot of a former shrine is a beautiful and well-preserved moonstone;
ringed with elephants, it’s unusual for having little riders atop some of them. The site is
1km south of the A4 between the 308 Km and 309 Km posts.
There’s also an elevated stupa, in good condition and guarded by stone lions, a vatad-
age (circular relic house) on a cross-shaped platform that – in a stroke of ancient trompe
l’oeil – is ‘supported’ by the stone pillars and crouched lions around its base, and a
crudely patched up headless Buddha. Note the streamlined elephant-trunk railings along
the site’s staircases.
A little further west, between the 309 Km and 310 Km posts is Kotawehera, the ruined
remains of an ancient brick stupa, which enjoys a magnificent situation upon a hilltop.
On a clear day there are spectacular vistas over forests to the wetlands around Pottuvil
Lagoon.