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On one side of a narrow peninsula, the
breathtaking white sands of sickle-shaped
Passekudah beach are being developed
as a kind of mini-Cancun, a government-
driven ‘Special Economic Zone’ with 14
luxury hotels ultimately planned to ring
the bay. Fishermen have also been ordered
to move their boats away from the main
beach. Sure, it’s a glorious stretch of sand,
but for the next few years the immediate
surrounds are a mess, resembling a build-
ing site, as edifices in various stages of con-
struction emerge from scrubland.
Passekudah’s extremely shallow water
heats up to bathtub temperatures on sunny
days (you’ll have to wade out some distance
for a good swim). There’s also lots of sharp
coral mixed in with the sand, so take care if
barefoot. You’ll often find busloads of Sinha-
lese tourists here; try walking north along
the shore to avoid the crowds.
In contrast, Kalkudah beach, 2km away
over the headland to the south, is deserted,
save the odd fisherman and his boat. This
fabulous stretch of golden sand was once
lined with hotels, but these were destroyed
in the civil war and 2004 tsunami. There’s
little shade, but it’s a delight to explore; just
wander along the shore until you find your
own private patch of sand.Coconut Cultural Park PArK
(Beach rd, Passekudah; admission rs 250; h8am-
5pm) Just behind the hotels, this impressive
new attraction is dedicated to the coconut,
surely the world’s most remarkable plant,
and inexorably linked with the Sri Lankan
nation (their cultivation is mentioned in the
Mahavamsa) and diet. You can wander un-
der coconut groves and learn all about the
coconut palm’s many uses – timber for hous-
ing and shelter, coir rugs and rope, cooking
oil and toddy. Beauty creams sold here make
great souvenirs and coconut ice cream is the
ideal post-tour treat.4 leeping & EatingS
Luxury hotels line the Passekudah shore-
line. Budget guesthouses and midrangers
are concentrated along the Valaichchenai–
Kalkudah Rd and in the sandy lanes inland
from Passekudah beach.
No matter where you stay, both beaches
are very accessible. All the hotels listed here
are no more than 2km from either beach.
Most people dine in hotels as there are no
specific restaurants.Victoria Guest House gUesThoUse $
(%957 8968; [email protected];
Valaichchenai–Kalkudah rd; s/d from rs
2000/2500, aW) This is where you stay if
you want to experience down-to-earth Sri
Lankan hospitality. Cleanliness standards
are high. It’s run by Mercy and her family,
who prepare delicious home-cooked meals
(using vegetables from their garden; mains
Rs 250) for their guests, rent out bikes and
are generous with smiles and laughter.
Victoria (the owner’s mum) drops by most
days and is an expert on natural medicine.Moni Guesthouse gUesThoUse $
(%365 4742; Valaichchenai–Kalkudah rd; d with/
without air-con rs 2800/1700; aW) Moni is in
the midst of things, but has a good family
feel. The five rooms are basic but kept tidy
and the family owners prepare filling meals
(Rs 250 to 400), including lot of fish curries
and huge breakfasts.New Land Guesthouse gUesThoUse $
(%568 0440; 283 Valaichchenai–Kalkudah rd;
r rs 1000-1500, with air-con rs 2500; aW) A
well-run, welcoming family-run place with a
selection of very clean rooms that have mos-
quito nets and wood furnishings; those in
the new block are a bit smaller. Mains cost
Rs 200 to 250.oRoy’s Inn gUesThoUse $$
(%205 0223; http://www.roysinnguesthouse.com;
Mariyamman Kovil rd, Passekudah; s/d rs 5000;
aW) Delightful new place, with gorgeous,
well-constructed cottage-style accommo-
dation dotted around a pretty, peaceful
garden. All the units are immaculately clean,
boast high ceilings, mozzie nets and good-
quality beds and mattresses. Staff are
extremely helpful and there’s a little restau-
rant for great-value meals (Rs 250 to 400).
It’s signposted down a sandy lane, 300m
inland from Passekudah beach.Nandawanam
Guesthouse gUesThoUse $$
(%225 7258; http://www.nandawanam.blogspot.co.uk;
Valaichchenai–Kalkudah rd; r rs 3300-5500; aW)
This green villa is set well back from the road
in beautiful gardens. Rooms vary – those on
the ground floor are more traditional, while
upstairs they’re modern – but all are very
clean and tidy, and boast good thick mat-
tresses and cable TV. Meals are excellent and
staff are sweet and helpful: you’ll feel right
at home here.