sri-lanka-13-full-pdf-ebook.pdf

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Uga Bay hoTel $$$
(%567 1000; http://www.ugaescapes.com; Passekudah
beach; r/ste from Us$142/196; aWs) On a
huge beachside plot, this luxury resort hotel
offers beautifully finished rooms and suites
(all with sea views) that combine dark wood,
marble and contemporary detailing to
achieve a pleasing vision of tropical chic. All
are equipped with an iPod dock, huge flat-
screen TV and DVD player. Kids will love the
massive pool, and there’s a spa and gym.
Book on the hotel’s website at least a week
in advance for the best rates.

Anilana Pasikuda resor T hoTel $$$
(%203 0900; http://www.anilana.com/pasikuda; r/
chalets from Us$138/165; aWs) Tasteful
beachfront hotel where ultra modernity is
tempered with thatched roofs and natural
materials. All accommodation (in the main
building or shoreside) features hip lighting
and modish bathrooms and is set around
a lovely pool that’s perfect for laps. There’s
a well-regarded spa (try the hydrotherapy
treatments) and fine restaurant (grilled or
barbecued fish is superb).

8 Getting There & Away

The small town of Valaichchenai on the A15
coastal highway is the gateway to Passekudah
and Kalkudah. Buses (rs 50, 50 minutes, every
20 minutes) connect Valaichchenai with Batti-
caloa. heading north, there are services to Trin-
comalee (rs 152, three hours, every 30 minutes).
Three-wheelers charge rs 150 for the short
hop between Valaichchenai and Passekudah or
Kalkudah.

Trincomalee

%026 / POPULATION 59,000
Trincomalee (Trinco) had a rough time in
the war, but this fascinating town is begin-
ning to thrive again. Sitting on one of the
world’s finest natural harbours, Trincomalee
is old almost beyond reckoning: it’s possibly
the site of historic Gokana in the Mahavam-
sa (Great Chronicle), and its Shiva temple
the site of Trikuta Hill in the Hindu text
Vayu Purana. Most people just pass through
the city on their way to the nearby beaches
of Uppuveli and Nilaveli, but the town has
some charm, lots of history and an interest-
ing melange of people.
Trincomalee’s superb deep-water port has
made it the target for all manner of attacks
over the centuries: by the British takeover
in 1795, the city had changed colonial hands

seven times. Today the Sri Lankan armed

forces control Fort Frederick, along with the

British-built airfield, China Bay, to the south.

1 ights & ActivitiesS

Fort Frederick ForTress

(Konesar rd) F Occupying the neck of a

narrow peninsula, Fort Fredrick has been

a defensively important site for centuries.

A fortress was initially constructed here

by the Portuguese in 1623 and later rebuilt

by the Dutch. The British took over in 1782

(look out for royal insignias crowning the

tunnel-like gateway that pierces the fort’s

massively stout walls).

The fortress is occupied today by the Sri

Lankan military, but you’re able to wander

around substantial parts of this once huge

garrison.

Assorted cannons and artillery are dotted

around the enclave, which also contains a

small number of spotted deer.

The impressive Georgian-style mansion

(not open to visitors) is Wellesley House,

named after a Duke of Wellington. It dates

from the late 1700s.

There’s also a big standing Buddha stat-

ue at the Gokana Temple, from where there

are fine views of Trinco and the coastline.

Kandasamy Kovil hiNDU

(Kandasamy Kovil rd) This revered temple

at the summit of a rocky outcrop is one of

Sri Lanka’s pancha ishwaram, five histor-

ical Hindu temples dedicated to Shiva and

established to protect the island from nat-

ural disaster. It houses the lingam (Hindu

phallic symbol) known as the Swayambhu

Lingam. It’s an ancient place of worship, but

A WHALE WATCHTOWER

Jutting into the ocean on the east side

of the city of Trincomalee, Swami Rock

has been declared the world’s greatest

vantage point for blue whale spotting by

oceanographers.

Blue whales are present in the seas

off Trinco all year round, though sight-

ings are most frequent between the

months of February and November.

Sperm whales also regularly cruise by.

So while you’re exploring the Kan-

dasamy Kovil temple, spare some time

to gaze at the big blue offshore for

spouting cetaceans. And bring binocu-

lars if you can.