west of the small town are Ramsar protected, making them a prime birdwatching area. Migrant
birds from Europe include Moussier’s Redstart (Phoenicurus moussieri), the Marbled Teal
(Marmaronetta angustirostris) and Audouin’s Gull (Larus audouinii). Some endemic and rare fish
are also found in the wetlands here.
From the eastern side of the Moulouya River estuary, the much-vaunted Station Balnéaire
(seaside resort) begins and runs for 5km to Saídia along a truly magnificent beach. But it’s all a
sorry sight. So far, there are hundreds upon hundreds of blocks of apartments; those on the
seafront corniche have been completed and a few sold, while those stretching back from the
coast for at least a kilometre lie unoccupied or incomplete. Even if they have been sold, the
apartments are only occupied during the season (July and August) which gives the entire
development a ghostly air.
Morocco has largely escaped the recent world financial crisis, but it’s here and in similar
developments all along the coast, that the crunch can definitely be felt. There are the
beginnings of two golf courses, with more to come. The best area of beach along this 5km
stretch is at Mediterreanéa Saídia , where the marina is unfinished but the shopping centre
complete. At the time of research, there was just one hotel in operation here, the Barceló
Mediterranéa Saídia ( in Spain 00 34 9021 01 10 01; www.barcelo.com; r from €160;
) , which offers a spa, sporting facilities and several restaurants and bars.
Saídia
POP 18,000
At time of research Saídia was still the sleepy little seaside town it has always been but is
holding its breath in anticipation of developments along the coast. The financial crisis has
prevented the Station Balnéaire from taking off as was hoped.
Saídia has a fine beach and a new corniche with restaurants and clubs along it. Those that
have been completed, though, are closed out of season. One block back from the beach, Blvd
Hassan II has some pre-existing hotels, banks, cafes and internet facilities.
The adjacent border with Algeria remains closed. While Morocco would like to reopen it,
Algeria has so far refused to agree. However, there is no active conflict.
MOVING ON?
For further information, head to shop.lonelyplanet.com to purchase a downloadable PDF of the Algeria chapter from Lonely
Planet’s Africa guide.Berkane
POP 80,000
Berkane is a dusty modern town about 80km southeast of Nador on the road to Oujda. While
the name means ‘black’ in the local Berber language, Berkane is famous for its oranges and
everything in the town is, well, orange. The taxis, the buildings and the wonderful statue of an