CHURCHHOTELHOTELCAFEorange as you enter the town. It’s most useful to travellers as a transit point, including the gas
smugglers who blow through town like bats out of hell on their nightly runs to Algeria. And it’s
not olive oil being sold in plastic bottles at the side of the roads around town, but pirated petrol
from Algeria, which it’s better not to use as it’s probably adulterated. Berkane can serve as a
base for exploring the Beni-Snassen Mountains.
The town is easy to navigate as it’s stretched along Blvd Mohammed V, which leads from the
orange Grande Mosquée in the west (don’t miss the many stork nests in the trees) to the large
roundabout at the other end, dominated by a large orange municipal building. You’ll find the post
office and plenty of ATMs here. Halfway between is the main square, with the CTM station on
the south side and a petrol station opposite.
Sights & Activities
French Church
( 8.30am-noon & 2.30-6pm Mon-Sat, closed Wed afternoon) The only site of interest in
Berkane is the French Church . Built in 1909, it was the life project of a single priest with a very
broad view of religion. The interior contains a strange amalgamation of alchemy, signs of the
zodiac and biblical scenes transplanted to Morocco, all painted by the priest himself. From the
Grand Mosquée, head down Blvd Mohammed V and turn left at Maroc Telecom. The church is
straight ahead.
The church is now home to the Association Homme et Environment (Man & Environment
Association; www.hee.ouvaton.org) a dedicated, and rare, local environmental group. Ask for
its president, Najib Bachiri ( 0661 10 53 73), who speaks fluent English and enjoys giving
tours. Entrance is free, but donations to the association are most welcome.
Sleeping & Eating
The main options for sleeping and eating in Berkane are strung along or near Blvd Mohammed
V.
Hotel Rosalina €€
( 0536 61 89 92; 82 Blvd Mohammed V; [email protected]; s/d/ste
Dh400/460/1000; ) This new hotel is pleasant, with lots of polished wood and friendly
staff. It offers clean, comfortable rooms with TVs.
Hotel Zaki €€
( 0536 61 37 43; 27 Rte d’Oujda; s/d incl breakfast Dh360/420; ) This three-star hotel
is 400m east of the main roundabout next to a Chinese restaurant. The 2nd floor is like a
designer showroom, with each room tastefully decorated in its own style, but be careful of
dangerous carpets jumbled on the stairs, which have been there for years.
Café du Jardin €
(Blvd Mohammed V) Located in a garden opposite the main square, this place has the closest
thing to atmosphere in Berkane, although the clientele is decidedly masculine.