D5
B4
B4
(see 43)
B4
B4
E3
E1
(see 17)
D2
D2
D5
D3
B4
A4
D5
E3
C3
(see 41)(see 21)
(see 29)
(see 37) Eating
39 Aji Chouf
40 Bou Jeloud Restaurants
41 B'sara Stalls
Clock Kitchen
42 Chameau Bleu
43 Clock Kitchen
44 Cremerie La Place
45 Dar Anebar
Dar Roumana
46 Dar Touria
47 Famille Restaurant Berrada
48 Fès et Gestes
49 Fez Lounge
50 La Maison Bleue
51 Medina Café
52 Najmat Souafine
53 R'cif Market
54 Snail Stand
Talaa Kebira Market Drinking
Hôtel Batha
Riad Fès
Sofitel Palais JamaïBab Bou Jeloud in the west is the main entrance to the old city, with two main streets
descending into the medina’s heart. On your left as you enter is Talaa Kebira (Big Slope), with
Talaa Seghira (Little Slope) on your right. Both converge near Place an-Nejjarine, continuing to
the Kairaouine Mosque and Zawiya Moulay Idriss II – the heart of the city. From here, it’s uphill
to reach the northern gates of Bab Guissa and Bab Jamaï, or head south towards Bab R’cif –
one of the few places where vehicular traffic penetrates the old city. The R’cif area was
undergoing a big facelift (including refurbishing its square) when we most recently visited, and is
likely to provide an alternate focus for the medina.
While we’ve listed the major sights below, they’re really only a small part of the charm of the
medina. It pays to give yourself a little random exploration, and simply follow your nose or ears
to discover the most unexpected charms of Fez’ nature. Following your nose will lead you to
women with bundles of freshly cut herbs, children carrying trays of loaves to be baked in the
local bakery or a cafe selling glasses of spiced Berber coffee. Around the next corner you
might find a beautifully tiled fountain, a workshop making wooden hammam buckets, a camel’s
head announcing a specialist butcher, or just a gang of kids turning their alley into a football
pitch. Everywhere, listen out for the call to prayer or the mule driver’s cry balak! (look out!) to
warn of the approach of a heavily laden pack animal.
Navigation can be confusing and getting lost at some stage is a certainty, but look at this as
part of the adventure. A handy tip is to note the ‘main’ streets that eventually lead to a gate or
landmark – just follow the general flow of people. Ask shopkeepers for directions, or you can
fall back on the eager kids happy to rescue confused foreigners for a dirham or two.