MOSQUEISLAMIC COLLEGEISLAMIC COLLEGEMUSEUMMUSEUMKairaouine Mosque & University
( Offline map Google map ) One of Africa’s largest mosques and possibly the oldest university in
the world, this mosque complex is the spiritual heart of Fez and Morocco itself. Established in
859 by Tunisian refugees and expanded by the Almoravids in the 12th century, it can
accommodate up to 20,000 people at prayer. It’s so large that it can be difficult to actually see:
over the centuries the streets and houses of the Kairaouine quarter have encroached on the
building so much they disguise its true shape. The mosque has recently been restored, but non-
Muslims are forbidden to enter and will have to be content with glimpses of its seemingly
endless columns from the gates on Talaa Kebira and Place as-Seffarine. Better still, take the
view from any vantage point over the medina: the huge green pyramidal roof and minaret
immediately announce their presence.
Medersa el-Attarine
Offline map Google map ( admission Dh10; 9am-6pm, closed during prayers) Founded by Abu
Said in 1325 in the heart of the medina, the Medersa el-Attarine was designed as a separate
annexe to the Kairaouine Mosque. Halls for teaching and a modest masjid flank the central
courtyard. Displaying the traditional patterns of Merenid artisanship, the zellij (tilework) base,
stuccowork and cedar wood at the top of the walls and on the ceiling are every bit as elegant
as the artistry of the Medersa Bou Inania.
Medersa Bou Inania
Offline map Google map ( admission Dh10; 9am-6pm, closed during prayers) A short walkdown Talaa Kebira from Bab Bou Jeloud, the Medersa Bou Inania is the finest of Fez’
theological colleges. It was built by the Merenid sultan Bou Inan between 1350 and 1357. The
medersa underwent extensive restoration a few years ago, and the results are amazing:
elaborate zellij and carved plaster, beautiful cedar mashrabiyyas (lattice screens) and massive
brass doors.
Whereas most medersas just have a simple prayer hall, the Bou Inania is unusual in that it
hosts a complete mosque, complete with a beautiful green-tiled minaret. The mihrab (niche
facing Mecca) has a particularly fine ceiling and onyx marble columns. It’s thought that the
medersa required a larger-scale mosque because there was none other nearby at the time.
Nejjarine Museum of Wooden Arts & Crafts
Offline map Google map ( 0535 74 05 80; Place an-Nejjarine; admission Dh20; 10am-7pm)
Opened in 1998, this museum is in a wonderfully restored funduq – a caravanserai for travelling
merchants who stored and sold their goods below and took lodgings on the floors above.
Centred on a courtyard, the rooms are given over to displays of traditional artefacts from
craftsmen’s tools, chunky prayer beads and Berber locks, chests and musical instruments
(compare the traditional wedding furniture with the modern glitzy chairs outside in Place an-
Nejjarine). Everything is beautifully presented, although the stunning building gives the exhibits a
run for their money. The rooftop cafe has great views over the medina. Photography is
forbidden.