On Food and Cooking

European countries began stiffening their
linen cloth with wheat starch. The word
starch dates from the 15th century, and
comes from a German root that means “to
stiffen, to make rigid,” which is also what
starch does to convert bread dough into
bread. The German in turn came from an
Indo-European root meaning “stiff”;
related words are stare, stark, stern, and
starve (which results in the rigidity of
death).
Bakers use yeasts or chemical leavenings
to fill their products with gas bubbles (p. 531).
However, these ingredients don’t create new
bubbles: their carbon dioxide is released into
the water phase of the dough or batter, and
diffuses into and enlarges whatever tiny
bubbles are already there. These primordial
bubbles are air bubbles, and are created when
the baker first kneads a dough, or creams
butter and sugar, or whips eggs. The initial
aeration of doughs and batters thus strongly