On Food and Cooking

(Barry) #1

influences the final texture of baked goods.
The more bubbles produced during the
preparation of a dough or batter, the finer and
tenderer the result.


Fats: Shortening


Since the early 19th century, the term
shortening has been used to mean fats or oils
that “shorten” a dough, or weaken its structure
and thus make the final product more tender
or flaky. This role is most evident in pie
crusts and puff pastry (p. 561), where layers
of solid fat separate thin layers of dough from
each other so that they cook into separate
layers of pastry. It’s less evident but also
important in cakes and enriched breads, where
fat and oil molecules bond to parts of the
gluten protein coils and prevent the proteins
from forming a strong gluten. To make a rich
bread with a strong gluten (e.g. Italian
panettone, p. 546), the baker mixes the flour

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