MALAYSIAlonelyplanet.com PENINSULAR INTERIOR •• Taman Negara
local train at around 8.30am to Wakaf Bahru
(RM13). If you opt to skip the view, a daily
northbound express train leaves Jerantut at
1.45am (seat/berth RM17/31, four hours).
Two express trains run daily to Singapore
(2am and 12.30pm), via Johor Bahru. For
KL Sentral, take the 12.30am express. For an
up-to-date timetable and list of fares, consult
KTM (www.ktmb .com.my).
TAMAN NEGARA
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Taman Negara blankets 4343 sq km in shad-
owy, damp, impenetrable jungle. Inside this
tangle, trees with gargantuan buttressed root
systems dwarf luminescent fungi, orchids
and even the giant rafflesia (which is the
world’s largest flower). Trudge along muggy
trails in search of elusive wildlife (tigers,
elephants and rhinos can hide much better
than you’d think), explore bat caves, bal-
ance on the creaky canopy walk or spend
the night in a ‘hide’ where jungle sounds
make you feel like you’ve gone back to the
caveman days.
The best time to visit the park is in the
dry season between February and September.
During the wet season, or even after one good
rainfall, leeches come out in force.
Orientation & Information
Kuala Tahan is the base camp for Taman
Negara and has accommodation, minimarkets
and floating-barge restaurants. It’s a scruffy
place and standards are low but it’s pleas-
ant enough. Directly opposite Kuala Tahan,
across Sungai Tembeling, is the entrance to
the national park, Mutiara Taman Negara
Resort and the park headquarters located at
the Wildlife Department.
Most people purchase permits (park en-
trance/camera RM1/5) when they buy their
bus and/or boat tickets to Kuala Tahan in
Jerantut. Otherwise you’ll need to get your
permits at the Wildlife Department (%266 1122;
h8am-10pm Sat-Thu, 8am-noon & 3-10pm Fri). The re-
ception desk also provides basic maps, guide
services and advice.
Internet access is expensive (per hour RM5
to RM6). There are a handful of terminals at
Agoh Chalets and a few more at an unnamed
shop across from Teresek View Motel. There
are no banks in Taman Negara.Activities
HIDES & SALT LICKS
Animal-observation hides (bumbun) are
built overlooking salt licks and grassy clear-
ings, which attract feeding nocturnal animals.
You’ll need to spend the night in order to see
any real action. There are several hides close
to Kuala Tahan (Tabing and Kumbang hides
being the most popular) and Kuala Trenggan
that are a little too close to human habitation
to attract the shy animals. Even if you don’t see
any wildlife, the jungle sounds are well worth
it – the ‘symphony’ is best at dusk and dawn.
Hides (per person per night RM5) need to be reserved
at the Wildlife Department and they are very
rustic with pit toilets. Some travellers hike in-
dependently in the day to the hides, then camp
overnight and return the next day, while others
go to more far-flung hides that require some
form of transport and a guide; the Wildlife
Department can steer you in the right direction.
For overnight trips you’ll need food, water and
a sleeping bag. Rats on the hunt for tucker are
problematic, so hang food high out of reach.
Some of the following hides can be reached
by popular treks (see p488 ):PLANNING FOR TAMAN NEGARA
Stock up on essentials in Jerantut. If it’s been raining, leeches will be unavoidable. Tobacco,
salt, toothpaste and soap can be used to deter them, with varying degrees of success. A liberal
coating of insect spray over shoes and socks works best. Tuck pant legs into socks; long sleeves
and long pants will protect you from insects and brambles. Even on short walks, take more water
than you think you’ll ever need, and on longer walks take water-purifying tablets.
Camping, hiking and fishing gear can be hired at the Mutiara Taman Negara Resort shop or
at several shops and guest houses on the Kampung Kuala Tahan side. Asking prices per day are
around RM8 for a sleeping bag, RM10 for a rucksack, RM25 for a tent, RM20 for a fishing rod,
RM5 for a sleeping pad, RM8 for a stove and RM8 for boots. Prices can be negotiated and it’s
good to shop around for bargains as well as quality.487