MALAYSIA
PENINSULAR INTERIOR •• Taman Negara lonelyplanet.comBumbun Blau & Bumbun Yong On Sungai Yong.
From the park headquarters it’s roughly 1½ hours’ walk
to Bumbun Blau (3.1km), which sleeps 12 people and has
water nearby, and two hours to Bumbun Yong (4km). You
can visit Gua Telinga along the way. Both hides can also be
reached by the riverbus service (see p490 ).
Bumbun Cegar Anjing Once an airstrip, this is now
an artificial salt lick, established to attract wild cattle and
deer. A clear river runs a few metres from the hide. It’s 1½
hours’ walk from Kuala Tahan; after rain Bumbun Cegar
Anjing may only be accessible by boat (RM40 per four-
person boat). The hide sleeps eight people.
Bumbun Kumbang From the park headquarters it’s
roughly five hours’ walk to Bumbun Kumbang. Alternatively,
take the riverbus service from Kuala Tahan up Sungai Tem-
beling to Kuala Trenggan (RM90 per four-person boat, 35
minutes), then walk 45 minutes to the hide. Tapirs, monkeys
and gibbons are rarely seen here and elephant sightings are
even rarer. The hide has bunks for 12 people.
Bumbun Tahan Roughly five minutes’ walk from the park
headquarters. There’s little chance of seeing any animals
apart from monkeys and deer at this artificial salt lick.
Tabing Hide About 1½ hours’ walk (3.1km) from park
headquarters, this hide is near the river so it’s also accessible
by the riverbus service. The best animal-watching (mostly
tapir and squirrels) here is at nightfall and daybreak.TREKKING
There are treks to suit all levels of motivation,
from a half-hour jaunt to a steep nine-day tus-
sle up and down Gunung Tahan (2187m). It’s
unanimous that the guides are excellent.
Popular do-it-yourself treks, from one to
five hours, include the following:
Bukit Teresik From behind the Canopy Walkway a trail
leads to the top of this hill, from which there are fine views
across the forest. It’s steep and slippery in parts. The return
trip is about one hour.
Canopy Walkway (admission RM5; h10am-3.30pm
Sat-Thu, 9am-noon Fri) Anyone who says walking isn’t an
adrenalin sport has never been suspended on a hanging
rope bridge constructed of wooden planks and ladders
elevated 45m above the ground; come early to avoid long
waits in line.
Gua Telinga From the park headquarters it’s roughly a
1½-hour walk (2.6km). Think wet: a stream runs through
this cave (with sleeping bats) and a rope guides you for the
strenuous 80m half-hour trek – and crawl – through the
cave. Return to the main path through the cave or take the
path round the rocky outcrop at its far end. From the main
path it’s 15 minutes’ walk to Bumbun Blau hide or you can
walk directly back to Kuala Tahan.
Kuala Trenggan The well-marked main trail along the
bank of Sungai Tembeling leads 9km to Kuala Trenggan. This
is a popular trail for those heading to Bumbun Kumbang.Lubok Simpon This is a popular swimming hole. Near
the Canopy Walkway, take the branch trail that leads
across to a swimming area on Sungai Tahan.Longer treks, which require a guide, include
the following:
Gunung Tahan For the gung-ho, Gunung Tahan, 55km
from the park headquarters, is Peninsular Malaysia’s
highest peak (2187m). The return trek takes nine days at a
steady pace, although it can be done in seven. Guides are
compulsory (RM550 per person for nine days if there are
four people; prices vary depending on how many are in the
group). Try to organise this trek in advance through the
Wildlife Department ( p487 ).
Rentis Tenor ( Tenor Trail) From Kuala Tahan, this trek
takes roughly three days. Day one: take the trail to Gua
Telinga, and beyond, for about seven hours, to Yong camp-
ing ground. Day two: a six-hour walk to the Rentis camping
ground. Day three: cross Sungai Tahan (up to waist deep) to
get back to Kuala Tahan, roughly six hours’ walk, or you can
stop over at the Lameh camping ground, about halfway.OTHER ACTIVITIES
The sport fish known locally as ikan kelah
(Malaysian mahseer) is a cousin of India’s
king of the Himalayan rivers and is a prized
catch. You’ll need a fishing licence, transport
and a guide to fish along the river; head to the
Wildlife Department (%266 1122; h8am-10pm Sat-Thu,
8am-noon & 3pm-10pm Fri) for more information. If
that sounds too hard, you can fish along Sungai
Tembeling without a permit.Tours
Everyone in Kuala Tahan wants to take you on
a tour. There are popular night tours (RM35)
on foot or by 4WD. You’re more likely to
see animals (such as slow loris, snakes, civets
and flying squirrels) on the drives, which go
through palm-oil plantations outside the park,
but even these don’t guarantee sightings.
Many travellers sign up for tours to an
Orang Asli settlement where you’ll be shown
how to use a long blowpipe and start a fire.
While local guides insist that these tours
provide essential income for the Orang Asli,
most of your tour money will go to the tour
company. A small handicraft purchase in the
village will help spread the wealth.
You really don’t need a guide or tour for
day trips – or even overnight trips – to the
hides if you’re prepared to organise your
own gear, food and water. You’ll need one
for longer treks, however, and the going rate
is RM150 per day (one guide can lead up to488