MALAYSIA
MALAYSIAN BORNEO – SARAWAK •• Batang Rejang lonelyplanet.comA short drive beyond Kubah National
Park, the Matang Wildlife Centre (%082-22012;
admission RM10; h8am-5.30pm) was set up as a
rehabilitation centre for endangered species
released from captivity, particularly Borneo’s
larger mammals.
Matang Transport Bus 11 leaves Kuching
(from the stand near Kuching Mosque) for
Red Bridge, near the turn-off for Kubah, at
regular intervals (RM2, 40 minutes); there’s no
set timetable, but services run roughly every
90 minutes in the morning. The bus will drop
you off at Red Bridge, near the Jublee Mas
Recreation Park, from where it’s a 4km walk
to the park entrance, quite a lot of it uphill.
Note that at the time of research this bus was
not operating and may not be operating dur-
ing your visit. A taxi from town will cost at
least RM75 return; arrange with the driver a
time to be picked up.Gunung Gading National Park
There is some good walking in this pleasant
little park (%082-735714; adult/child RM10/5; h8am-
12.30pm & 2-5pm), but most visitors come to see
the rare Rafflesia tuanmudae. These massive
flowers, blessed with a spectacular bouquet of
rotting flesh, appear year-round, but at unpre-
dictable times and in varying locations. Check
whether any are in bloom by ringing the park
headquarters before heading to the park.
To get to Gunung Gading, first take STC
Bus EP07 from the Jln Penrissen Express Bus
Terminal to Lundu (RM10, 1¼ hours, four
daily). The park entrance is 2km north of
Lundu, on the road to Pantai Pandan; you
can either walk there or take a taxi (RM15)
from the Lundu bus station. Vans also oper-
ate on this route (RM2), but they only leave
when full.BATANG REJANG
Carrying the mystic resonance of the ex-
otic interior, the mighty Batang Rejang is
Borneo’s jugular, the main trade artery for all
of central and southern Sarawak. But if it’s an
Amazonian tangle of jungle vines you’re after,
you’ll be sorely disappointed. These days, the
Rejang feels like a wide, muddy conveyor belt
for the insatiable logging industry. Topsoil
and logging detritus have been clogging the
waters for years, and it’s not a pretty sight.
And let’s not forget the bungled Bakun Dam
hydroelectric plant, which has yet to be com-
pleted thanks to mismanagement, financialproblems and the overambitious scale of
the project.
It’s not all bad, though – the serpentine
tributaries splintering off the main river hide
dozens upon dozens of remote longhouse com-
munities. Visiting a longhouse offers travellers
the unique opportunity to interact with the is-
land’s indigenous people, and it’s an experience
you won’t soon forget (see p518 ).Sibu
pop 255,000
While Kuching takes the cat as its mascot, it
comes as no surprise that Sibu aspires to be
a swan – the city is, after all, quite the ugly
duckling. If you are from your nation’s (or
region’s) second city, then you might have a
soft spot for Sibu as you wander through the
town’s bustling markets. Locals are staunchly
proud of their roaring burg despite the notice-
able lack of attractions. Sibu is the gateway to
the Rejang, and is home to a large Chinese
population as evidenced by Tua Pek Kong Temple
(Jln Temple; admission free; hdawn-dusk).INFORMATION
Greatown Travel (%084-211243, 0198565041; www
.greatown.com; No 6, 1st Floor, Lorong Chew Siik Hiong
1A) Reliable inbound tour operator.
ibrowse Netcafé (%084-310717; 4th fl, Wisma Sanyan,
1 Jln Sukan; per hr RM3; h8am-10pm) Internet access.
Main post office (%084-332312; Jln Kampung
Nyabor; h8am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, to 3pm Sat)
Rejang Medical Centre (%084-330733; http://www.rejang
.com.my; 29 Jln Pedada) A group of private specialist clinics
with 24-hour emergency services.
Sibu General Hospital (%084-343333; Jln Abdul
Tunk Rahman)
Standard Chartered Bank (Jln Tukang Besi) Opposite
the visitors information centre; changes travellers cheques
and has an ATM. Be prepared to wait for the cheques to
go through.
Visitors Information Centre (%084-340980; 32
Jln Tukang Besi; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri) Has friendly and
informative staff (ask for Jessie) who can help with infor-
mation about upriver trips out of Song, Kapit and Belaga.
Has plenty of materials, including maps, bus schedules,
and brochures on sights and travel to other destinations
in Sarawak.SLEEPING
Most of the budget lodging in Sibu is of a very
low standard and this is a city where even
budget travellers should opt for a midrange
option if at all possible.516