MALAYSIABook your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels MALAYSIAN BORNEO – SARAWAK •• Batang Rejang
Li Hua Hotel (%084-324000; Lg Lanang 1; r RM45-80;
a) On the riverfront, about 100m south (up-
river) of the Swan Statue, you will find Sibu’s
best-value hotel, with spotless tile-floor rooms
and good views from the upper floors.
Victoria Inn (%084-320099; 80 Jln Market; r RM50-85;
a) If the Li Hua is full, this centrally located
budget hotel is a good choice. It’s a tightly
packed warren of rooms about a block away
from the high-rise Tanahmas Hotel.
Medan Hotel (%084-216161; Jln Pahlawan, Jaya Li Hua;
s/d RM65/75) For those needing to stay near the
Sibu bus terminal, prim and proper Medan
will do the trick.
EATING
Sibu is a great spot for local eats. Try kam pua
mee, the city’s signature dish, which is thin
noodle strands soaked in pork fat and served
with a side of roast pork. Check out http://www.sibu
.sarawakfoodguide.com for the most up-to-
date info on where to eat in town.
Café Café (%084-328101; 10 Jln Chiew Geok Lin;
mains from RM3; h10am-10pm) Tucked down the
street in the shadow of the towering pagoda,
this local hotspot puts a modern spin on the
traditional kedai kopi. Excellent local fare
(and a smattering of designer coffee bever-
ages) is served up amid bodacious decor and
flickering candles.
Le Ark Café (%084-321813; Rejang Esplande; mains
from RM8; hlunch & dinner daily, breakfast Sat-Sun)
Undoubtedly the trendiest spot in town, Le
Ark sits along the waterfront like a beached
boat, serving up a variety of cocktails to trend-
ier types who laze on the comfy patio seating.
A selection of local and international eats is
available as well.
New Capital Restaurant (%084-326066; Jln Kampong
Nyabor; meals per person around RM25; hlunch & dinner) If
you feel like a splurge, this brilliant Chinese
eatery is sure to satisfy, with excellent fresh
fish, meat and vegetable dishes. We recom-
mend the butter prawns and stir-fried midin
washed down with a fresh fruit juice.
For Chinese and Malay snacks, try the
evening food stalls that set up in the late af-
ternoon along Jln Market. You’ll also find
several stalls on the 1st floor of PSS (Pasar
Sentral Sibu).
GETTING THERE & AROUND
Air
Malaysia Airlines (%1300 883 000; http://www.malaysiaair
lines.com.my) has several flights daily from Sibu
to Kuching, Miri, Kota Kinabalu and Kuala
Lumpur. Air Asia (%1300 889 933; http://www.airasia.com)
has dirt-cheap flights to/from Kuala Lumpur,
Johor Bahru and Kuching.Boat
If you are heading to Sibu from Kuching,
check the local newspaper for the most up-
to-date speedboat departure times (times to
Kapit are published as well). Boats leave from
the River Express Terminal at the western end
of Jln Bengkel (which is at the southwestern
end of town). There is one boat per day at
around 11.30am (RM35).
Getting to Kapit is the first leg of the jour-
ney up Batang Rejang. Several boats motor the
140km from Sibu to Kapit (RM17 to RM30,
three hours, departures between 5.30am
and 1pm).Bus
Bus companies have ticket stalls at the long-
distance bus station (Sungai Antu) and around
the local bus station on the waterfront. Buses
run between the long-distance bus station
and Sibu’s downtown all day for RM1. A taxi
to/from town will cost RM10.
Buses run between Sibu and Kuching
(RM40, eight hours, regular departures be-
tween 6.30am and 10pm), Miri (RM40, 7½
hours, roughly hourly from 6am to 10pm)
and Bintulu (RM20, 3½ hours, roughly hourly
from 5.30am to 6pm).Kapit
pop 19,500
After a three-hour journey in what feels like a
cramped space shuttle, you’ll arrive in the ka-
pital of the mighty, murky Batang Rejang. It’s
not much to look at, but after a few hours you’ll
quickly discover that this far-flung trading
centre is an important commerce hub for the
smattering of longhouses hidden in the nearby
jungle. Have a wander through the lively fresh
markets and sample savoury jungle ferns. We
recommend organising your longhouse visits
from Kapit rather than Belaga as there is a
wider variety of river systems from which to
choose. Ask at the visitor information centres
in either Sibu or Kuching for an updated list of
authorised tour providers in the area.
It’s important to take note that there’s an
antiquated permit system in place for those
wishing to travel from Kapit and Belaga.
However, we’ve never heard of any authority517