The Complete Book of Drawing Techniques

Charcoal

83

has been covered. The solution should dry
clear so as not to have an effect on the
drawing. But some home made solutions
can yellow with time. It is best for longevity
that you use a manufactured commercial
solution. These fixatives can be brought at
any art suppliers, and usually come in two
different forms.
The first and easiest way to apply fixative
is to buy the spray can version of the material
(illustration 1). Although this can be
expensive, in my opinion it is worth it. The
other option is to buy the fixative in a bottle.
It comes as a clear solution, and it needs to
be applied through what is called a diffuser.
One end of the diffuser is placed into the
fixative solution and the other end into the
mouth (illustration 2). You then proceed to
blow steadily. This action creates a spray,
which you aim at your drawing. You must
repeat this action two or three times, as you
would with the spray can variety of fixative,
to achieve a good covering.
A much cheaper way to fix your drawing
is to make your own fixative from diluted
resin. This is a very time consuming process,
but if you like doing this sort of thing it can
be very rewarding. (If you are interested in
attempting this, you can find ‘recipes’ in the
‘Handbook of Artists Materials and
Techniques’ by Ralph Mayer.) You will need
a diffuser as applicator if you opt to make
your own solution.

ERASERS

Most erasers that are used for charcoal can
also be used for graphite. However there are
particular erasers that are more appropriate
for charcoal mediums. A putty rubber is a
very good example, as it seems to soak up
the charcoal from the surface of the paper,
and it can be kneaded into different shapes

to erase in particular ways that enhance the

drawing. There are other erasers that also

work well with charcoal.

A length of cloth can be used to remove

charcoal from the surface of the support.

This is achieved by beating the cloth over the

area you wish to remove. It will not however

completely remove the charcoal surface, but

it will leave the ghost of the drawing. This

can be a useful as when you redraw it stops

you making the same mistakes over again.

One can also use bread to remove charcoal

from the surface of the support, and also

sandpaper. Compressed charcoal and conte

crayon are much more stubborn marks to

remove so my advice is to use a good quality

plastic eraser. Marks or areas made by wax

crayons can be removed by solvents or

scratching at the surface with a razor blade.

Removing wax crayon marks can be difficult.

SUPPORTS

Most charcoal, compressed charcoal, conte

crayon, and wax crayon drawings are made

on paper supports. It is important to

experiment with different papers and

surfaces, both flat and textured. Flat paper

surfaces will allow an even line to be drawn

and flat tonal surface to be created. Whereas

a textured paper surface will give the

impression of the texture of the paper.