Through my work as a makeup artist I’ve had the good fortune to travel around the world and meet women of diverse backgrounds. Through these travels I’ve
learned that women of all ethnicities—from Asian to Middle Eastern and Latina—want the same thing when it comes to their skin. They want their skin to look
smooth, even, and flawless. Each ethnicity has its own unique (and beautiful) traits and I believe in using makeup that enhances, rather than masks, these traits.
Asian Skin
“Isn’t yellow foundation going to make my skin look more yellow?” is a question that I often hear from my Asian customers when I recommend foundations with
yellow undertones. I’ve experimented with countless foundations over the years and I’ve found that yellow-toned foundations always look the most natural—
especially on Asian skins.
Many Asian women are prone to and concerned about sunspots, which are the result of sun damage. Aside from wearing sun protection every day, the best way to
deal with sunspots is with corrective peach- and pink-toned concealers. Some women have skin with yellow undertones and yellow surface tones. For them, I
suggest covering the sunspots with a medium-toned peach corrector. If the concealer is too light in tone it will look gray on the sunspot, so you may have to try a
few different tones to find the right one. Other women have skin with yellow undertones and pink surface tones (often the result of skin irritation due to using
bleaching agents). The best way to cover their sunspots is with a medium-toned pink bisque corrector. As I mentioned earlier, you’ll know the concealer is too light
if it turns ashy when it’s applied on the sunspot. After applying the corrector, gently smooth on a yellow-toned foundation in a shade that matches your skin
perfectly.
Black Skin
There are many variations in skin tone among black women, so consider the following advice as general guidelines rather than hard and fast rules. Black skin tends
to be darker across the forehead and perimeter of the face, and lighter on the middle parts of the face, including the cheeks. The trick when applying foundation is to
create a seamless look between the light/golden and dark/warmer parts of the face. Some women like enhancing the golden tones in their skin, and other women
like playing up the warmer tones in their skin. It’s a matter of personal preference and it’s important—whether you are doing your own makeup or you are a
makeup artist working with a customer—to know which tones you’re going to focus on.
If you want to go golden, choose a tinted moisturizer or sheer foundation that matches the skin on the center of your face. Apply the tinted moisturizer/sheer
foundation just on this area, then use a coppery bronzer on the other parts of the face to diffuse the transition between the lighter and darker areas.
If you want to go warm, choose a tinted moisturizer or sheer foundation in a shade that falls between the lighter and darker parts of the face. Applying a dark shade
of foundation all over the face will look unnatural so the idea here is to tone down the difference between the light and dark areas. Look for a yellow-based
foundation that has a bit of orange, red, or blue to it, depending on how deep the color of the skin is. Lighter black skin looks most natural with yellow-based
foundation that has a touch of golden orange. Very dark skin looks best with yellow-based foundation that has warm cinnamon tones. In all instances, if the
foundation looks ashy or gray on the skin, it’s not the right shade.