little space around the magazine box and bearing points on the wood at all points. If you are in making
this stock for a rifle with a heavy recoil the rear of the magazine box can be fitted closely to bear against
the wood, however be sure to leave a lease 1/32-inch clearance at the corners of the box on all sides.
You'll find that rasps and files do both of the work in inletting the box as well as other parts of the stock.
After you have everything shaped, and magazine box will drop in place with the guard setting against the
bottom of the stock, then check its outline against the outline you have drawn with the template. Now,
check the guards screws holes to be sure that it lined up with a hole in the blank of the stock.
Now you would need flat chisels to cut the outline across the parks at the end and also at the corners of
the magazine. Remove the wood to the depth of about 3/16 inch, and then use the curve chisel to cut
and finish the full outline for the magazine. After you get the wood inletted you can apply wipe on a little
oil to the bottom of the magazine and press into the place. This oil will show you by leaving a mark on
the wood what you do have to remove. This also applies to all of the rest of the inletting of the barrel and
action. Without this oil that is wiped on it would be extremely difficult to know where to remove wood and
were not to remove wood.
INLETTING THE RECEIVER
When you get ready to inlet the receiver you'll need to headless crews that can be threaded into the
guards screws tapped holes. I have found that the screws need not be much over three inches long, and
you can either make the screws or by them from any gunsmith supply house. The inletting of the receiver
and barrel is basically the same as the inletting of the trigger guards. With the screws in place you can
then mark out on the wood where you will need to remove the wood for the receiver and barrel. After you
have remove the wood for your receiver part of the inletting the receiver should then now drop into the
stock of approximately 5/16 of an inch. Once the receiver drops into place you can then draw the outline
of the barrel channel canting the pencil inward while drawing it alongside of the barrel to ensure a
smaller than the normal dimensions of the barrel.
INLETTING THE BARREL
As you start inletting the barrel it will be necessary to keep cutting this channel deeper as the receiver
sinks into the blank, but however make sure to keep the receiver going straight down. You will have to
continue cleaning out the wood for your receiver as the barrels go deeper into the stock. Most of the
work in inletting will be done with only straight chisels, however the barrel channel is finished with a
round rasp or curve chisel.
After you have the barrel and receiver inletted to almost correct depth you'll need to get a barrel inletting
rasps or scraper to smooth out the chisel marks that you have made in the wood and to make the
channel perfectly round. Remember to wide oil on the receiver and barrel as you inlet so you know
where the wood will be touching and has to be removed. Always work with the grain if you can however
you may have to change directions sometimes every few inches as a grain changes in directions. When
you have inletted the barrel and receiver, and the rear tang is almost below the surface of the wood, and
barrel touching edges of channel so you can get a short rest now has the easy work is about over.