5 Croaker’s Spot Seafood $$
(%804-269-0464; 1020 Hull St; mains $8-17;
h11am-9pm Mon, Tue & Thu, to midnight Wed,
to 11pm Fri, noon-11pm Sat, noon-9pm Sun;
p) Croaker’s is an institution in these parts,
a backbone of the African American dining
scene. Richmond’s most famous rendition of
refined soul food is comforting, delicious and
sits in your stomach like a brick. Beware the
intimidating Fish Boat: fried catfish, cornbread
and mac n’ cheese.
5 Edo’s Squid Italian $$$
(%804-864-5488; 411 N Harrison St; mains
$12-30) One of the best Italian restaurants in
Richmond, Edo’s serves up mouthwatering,
authentic cuisine such as eggplant parmesan,
spicy shrimp diavolo pasta, daily specials and,
of course, squid.
5 Julep’s Modern American $$$
(%804-377-3968; 1719 E Franklin St; mains
$18-32; h5:30-10pm Mon-Sat; p) This is
where classy, old-school Southern aristocrats
like to meet and eat, drawn by the fresh
experimentation of an innovative kitchen.
We’re a fan of the wild boar and lamb stew, but
vegetarian options abound, and the salad menu
is particularly noteworthy and creative.
4 Jefferson Hotel Luxury Hotel $$$
(%804-788-8000; http://www.jeffersonhotel.com;
101 W Franklin St; r from $250; paWs)
There’s an almost imperial sense of tradition
at this most famed of Richmond hotels,
which comes off as a modern execution of
the moonlight-and-magnolia cliché. With
that said, the effect isn’t put upon: service is
warm without becoming obtrusive. The grand
appearance of the place could put you in mind
of a fairy-tale castle.
4 Linden Row Inn Boutique Hotel^ $$
(%804-783-7000; http://www.lindenrowinn.com;
100 E Franklin St; r incl breakfast $120-170,
ste $250; paiW) This antebellum gem
has attractive rooms (with period Victorian
furnishings) spread among neighboring Greek
Revival townhouses in an excellent downtown
location. Friendly southern hospitality and
thoughtful extras (free passes to the YMCA, free
around-town shuttle service) sweeten the deal.
4 Massad House Hotel Motel^ $
(%804-648-2893; http://www.massadhousehotel.
com; 11 N 4th St; r $75-110) Massad’s great by
any standard, but excellent rates and a supreme
location near the heart of Richmond’s best
attractions give it a special place in our hearts.
The design will put you in mind of a cozy study in
Tudor-style budget bliss.
Appomattox Court
House National Park 9
4 Longacre B&B^ $$
(%800-758-7730; http://www.longacreva.com;
1670 Church St; r from $105, ste $275; pa)
Longacre looks like it got lost somewhere in the
English countryside and decided to set up shop
in Virginia. Seriously, there might be rooms
here where children disappear into magical
kingdoms after slipping through wardrobes.
There are lovely grounds replete with a shady
magnolia tree, plus six elegantly furnished
rooms scattered throughout the impressive
building.
VIRGINIA.TRIPS.
23
.THE CIVIL W
AR TOUR