lose up to one pint of water through the pores! The higher the water content in the epidermis, the more
pliable and wrinkle-free the skin will be. Moisturizer is the most important antiaging step and must be
used consistently, no matter how old you are. “Take care of the skin you have; it is meant to last a
lifetime,” says Anne Dolbeau, the founder of organic spa line Inara.
Moisturizers work together with the skin’s own hydrators, such as natural moisturizing factors and
sebum, to maintain the skin’s protective barrier. They increase water content, reduce water loss, and
preserve skin’s youthful appearance. Moisturizers also hydrate by providing water directly to the
skin.
Emollients
Emollients, the biggest group of ingredients in moisturizers, soften, heal, and hydrate skin by
preserving the water content of the epidermis. They also lubricate by creating a “skin slip,” the
feeling of smoothness following moisturizer application, and eliminate that dry, tight-feeling skin.
Emollients fill the cracks between clusters of dead skin cells with molecules of fatty acids and
alcohols. Let’s take a look at some of the best natural emollients. You will need to know them to
make informed choices when buying a new cream or lotion.
Phospholipids are contained in living human and plant cells. Along with cholesterol, they preserve
the integrity of the skin cell membranes. Lecithin, derived from eggs or soybeans, is an excellent
emollient phospholipid. Ideally, lecithin should be obtained from non-GMO sources.
Many people think that plant oils moisturize the skin. That’s not exactly true. Oils seal the cracks in
the skin’s upper layer and lock in the moisture, but they do not deliver any moisture directly. Plant
oils can also repair a damaged skin barrier. Some oily emollients penetrate skin better than others.
Look for olive oil and squalene from olive oil, as well as castor, jojoba, and coconut oil.
Mineral oil and petroleum jelly are often used to mimic the action of natural emollients. Once a
cure-all for skin disasters from burns to wrinkles, the glory of Vaseline (the commercial name for
petroleum jelly) is fading, even though many celebrities attribute their glowing skin to this medicine
chest staple. Instead of penetrating between dead skin cells, petrochemicals form a waterproof plastic
film on top of all the debris on the skin’s surface, locking in the bacteria, dead skin cells, sweat, and
sebum. No wonder acne thrives in such conditions!
Humectants
Humectants are the next most important ingredients in moisturizers. They attract moisture from the
air by bonding with water molecules and then releasing water gradually. Glycerin and sorbitol (sugar
alcohol), when derived from natural sources, are the best green humectants. Sugars are able to attract
water in two ways: they enhance water absorption from the lower layers of the skin into the
epidermis, and in humid conditions, they also help the skin absorb water from the external
environment. Unlike petrochemical propylene glycol, which is not recommended for use on damaged
skin, all naturally derived emollients and humectants have low potential for irritation (Johnson,
Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel 2001).
Emulsifiers
Emulsifiers hold together all moisturizer ingredients. Normally, oil will not mix with water, but
beeswax, when heated, turns oil and water into a smooth mixture. Green emulsifiers include lecithin;