plant-derived waxes cetearyl alcohol, cetearyl glucoside, and cetearyl olivate; coco
caprylate/caprate from coconut; cholesterol; and algae extract.
Penetration Enhancers
Penetration enhancers allow the active ingredients in the moisturizer to be absorbed into the skin.
The best natural penetration enhancers are water and essential oils, such as menthol and chamomile,
glycerol, cod liver oil, squalene, linoleic, oleic, and arachidonic acids.
Active Ingredients
Today, moisturizers do much more than preserve the delicate water balance in the epidermis. They
protect our skin from photodamage using sunscreen ingredients and antioxidants; they increase cell
turnover with mild alpha- and beta-hydroxy acids; they heal blemishes and curb inflammation with
antibacterial additives such as tea tree oil, zinc oxide, or various plant extracts that have antibacterial
effect; and they can actually reverse damage done to our skin and prevent premature aging using novel
ingredients such as peptides, human growth factor, cytokines, and good old vitamins and minerals.
Many active ingredients multitask. For example, zinc oxide acts as a physical sunscreen while helping
to prevent acne blemishes. Green tea extract prevents skin aging on many levels. Many active
ingredients synergize, or act in sync to provide a combined effect. For example, vitamins C and E
work better together than separately, and catechins from green tea improve the sun protective
qualities of mineral sunscreens.
FABULOUS GREENMOISTURIZERS
A good green moisturizer should contain the following:
- Emollients: beeswax, squalene from olive oil, jojoba and other plant oils, shea butter, cocoa butter,
plant-derived silicones. Beware: thickening agents like triglycerides, palmitates, myristates, and
stearates may be pore-clogging. - Humectants: hyaluronic acid, glycerin, or sorbitol.
- Emulsifiers: beeswax, non-GMO soybean wax, vegetable waxes identified by “caprilate,”
“caprate,” or “cetearyl” in the name, lecithin, cholesterol, or algae. - Penetration enhancers: vegetable squalene, linoleic acid (rosehip oil), oleic acid, peppermint
extract (if your skin tolerates it well), or chamomile extract (if you don’t experience a skin reaction
to it). Avoid propylene glycol and tetrasodium EDTA in your moisturizers. - Active ingredients: physical sunscreens (zinc oxide, titanium dioxide); soothing extracts
(bisabolol, allantoin, aloe juice/extract, licorice root, green tea, and chamomile extracts);
antibacterial tea tree oil, and antiaging components such as peptides, hyaluronic acid, Boswellia
serrata, CoQ10 and/or idebenone. Universally appealing antioxidants include green tea, Acai and
pomegranate extracts, grape polyphenols, beta-carotene, vitamin C esters, and vitamin E. For
nighttime use you may choose a moisturizer or a serum with alpha- and beta-hydroxy acids, but
keep in mind, wearing them during the day is not recommended since even mild acids may increase
facial pigmentation and result in uneven skin tone and brown spots.