166 Glossary of Names
André Courrèges (1923–) French fashion designer who began his career
at Balenciaga and then in 1961 set up his own fashion house, where he
produced radically new fashions including angular dresses and trouser
suits, especially renowned for his ‘space-age’ outfits. ‘Discovered’ the
miniskirt at the same time as mary Quant; he also wanted to make
fashionable clothing affordable.
Jacques Damourette (1873–1943) French grammarian and author, with
Edouard Pignon, of the Essai de grammaire de la langue française
(1911–1927), a ground-breaking study of how the French language works.
Ernest Dichter (1907–1991) austrian-american specialist on ‘motivation
research’ and pioneering management consultant; follower of Freud and
inventor of the ‘focus group’; author of The Strategy of Desire (London:
T. v. Boardman & Co, 1960).
Emile Durkheim (1858–1915) Pioneering French sociologist who believed
that humans cannot be reduced to the sum of their psychologies, rather
that it is society that defines the human.
Jean Duvignaud (1921–) French sociologist and anthropologist, influenced by
Durkheim, marx and Gurvitch, whose work tends to underline the radical
and theatrical aspects of human actions.
Lucien Febvre (1878–1956) Influential French social historian, colleague of
henri Berr on the inter-war journal Revue de synthèse historique, and then
founder with marc Bloch of the Annales school; played an important role in
setting up the vIth section of the Ecole Pratique des hautes Etudes (EPhE)
in Paris where Barthes began to research in 1960. Febvre’s work was
renowned for its blending of geography and psychology into what he called
‘faits de sensibilité’; see his ‘Sensibility and history, how to reconstitute
the Emotional Life of the Past’, in Febvre, A New Kind of History and Other
Essays (ed. Peter Burke, trans. K. Folca, new york: harper and row, 1973,
12–26).
André Félibien, sieur des Avaux et de Javercy (1619–1695) French
theorist and writer, historiographer at the académie royale, friend and
biographer of the painter Poussin. Best known for his Conversations on the
Lives and Work of Ancient and Modern Painters (1666–1688).
John Carl Flügel (1884–1955) British psychologist and psychoanalyst who
worked on morals in society and whose Psychology of Clothes (1930) is a
classic description of human motivations in clothing.
Charles Fourier (1772–1837) French utopian socialist.
Georges Friedmann (1902–1977) French sociologist and Communist Party
fellow-traveller; founder (with Georges Gurvitch) of the Centre d’études
sociologiques, specializing in work-related studies. Employed Barthes and
Edgar morin in 1955 to research work clothing.
Jean-Claude Gardin (1925–) French archaeologist and specialist on
prehistoric societies at the vIth section of the EPhE, known for his use of
semantic studies of ancient pottery, of Bronze age tools and money; see