The Language of Fashion

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Glossary of Names 167

his Le fichier mécanographique de l’outillage (Beyrouth: IFa, 1956), and
‘Four Codes for the Description of artefacts: an Essay in anthropological
Technique and Theory’, American Anthropologist (60:2, 1958).
Marcel Granet (1884–1940) Influential French sinologist, see his La Civilization
chinoise, (Paris: Club du livre de l’histoire, 1958 [1929], trans. as Chinese
Civilization, by Kathleen Innes and mable Brailsford, London: Keegan Paul,
1930); or his Etudes sociologiques sur la Chine (Paris: PuF, 1953).
Gilles-Gaston Granger (1920–) Epistemologist and philosopher of science,
professor at the Collège de France, major influence on michel Foucault,
though less historically relativist than the latter and more Kuhnian in his
understanding of theoretical and scientific ‘ruptures’ and continuities; see
his Pensée formelle et sciences de l’homme (Paris: aubier, 1960).
Algirdas Julien Greimas (1917–1992) Lithuanian-born French linguist and
specialist in semantics at the EPhE. having written his doctorate on fashion
language in 1947, he became friends with Barthes in Egypt and introduced
him to Saussure’s work, and became a pioneer in the 1960s of semiotics
and structuralist analysis of discourse.
Paul Guillaume (1878–1962) French ‘gestaltist’ psychologist, who followed
the German Gestalt tradition of seeing mental phenomena as ‘extended’
events, and the cognitive process as one which changes the perceiver’s
perceptive field forever.
Georges Gurvitch (1894–1965) Important French sociologist, colleague of
Georges Friedmann and specialist on marcel mauss and the dialectics of
totality; see his Dialectique et sociologie (Paris: Flammarion, 1962) and The
Social Frameworks of Knowledge (trans. margaret and Kenneth Thompson,
oxford: Blackwell, 1971).
Georg W. F. Hegel (1770–1831) German romantic philosopher; wrote briefly
but influentially on clothing, in Aesthetics vols. I and II.
Louis Hjelmslev (1899–1965) Danish linguist influenced by Saussure who
set out the three levels of langue as ‘schema’, ‘norm’ and ‘usage’, and
proposed that a sign was not only denotative but also connotative.
Roman Jakobson (1896–1982) russian-born linguist and phonologist of the
Prague Circle, Jakobson was a formalist, early structuralist and literary critic,
whose work on metaphor and metonymy influenced Claude Lévi-Strauss.
Elihu Katz (1926–) american sociologist and specialist on media and
communication; worked with Paul Lazarsfeld.
Alfred Kroeber (1876–1960) american anthropologist, specialist on native
americans who also wrote on cycles in social history, in particular in relation
to fashion.
Jacques Lacan (1901–1981) French psychiatrist and psychoanalyst whose
work has informed post-structuralism. Believing that the unconscious is
structured like a language, and applying Saussure’s theories of language to
Freudianism, Lacanian theory tended to be suspicious of attempts to tie the
signified too tightly to the signifier.

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