Language and Clothing 29Notes
1 Published in Critique 142 (march) 1959, 243–52; Oeuvres complètes
vol. 1, 793–800. a review of: J. Flügel, The Psychology of Clothes,
London, hogarth Press, 1950; Franz Kiener, Kleidung, Mode und Mensch
[Versuch einer psychologischen Deutung], munich, Ernst reinhardt verlag
1956; henny harald hansen, Histoire du costume, trans. from Danish by
Jacqueline Puissant, Flammarion, 1956 [first English edition as Costume
Cavalcade: 685 Examples of Costume in Colour, London, methuen,
1956; a richly illustrated but rather simplistic view of clothes history]; nevil
Truman, Historic Costume, London, Isaac Pitman & Son, 1936.
2 [Editors’ note: paraître—‘appearance’—is a word strongly linked to the
renaissance philosopher michel de montaigne.]
3 See rené Colas, Bibliographie générale du costume et de la mode, Paris,
Librairie Colas, 1932–33, 2 vol. in-4^0 ; hilaire and meyer hiler, Bibliography
of Costume, new york, h.W. Wilson Co., 1939.
4 amongst others: Carlyle, michelet, Balzac.
5 The best ethnological observations on this subject are probably those by
marcel Granet on ancient China.
6 Costume: ‘Truth of usages, clothes etc., reproduced in works of art’,
1676, Félibien. [Editors’ note: see andré Félibien, Conférences de
l’Académie Royale de peinture et de sculpture (Paris, Frédéric Léonard,
1676).]
7 The list of these Physiologies can be found at the Bibliothèque nationale,
in the general catalogue for the history of France, under ‘Li’.
8 [Editors’ note: see Balzac’s ‘La cravate c’est l’homme’; Balzac was the
anonymous author of L’Art de mettre sa cravate, and, says Pearl Binder
(Muffs and Morals, London, G.G. harrap, 1953, p. 48), was fascinated
by the many ways of tying the cravat—à la Byron, en cascade, à la
paresseuse, and the tight, stuffed and stiffened cravate de bureaucrate
satirized by Daumier. and, in the first half of the nineteenth century, it
mirrored the shifting social stresses in the France of that period.]
9 notably Jules Etiennce Joseph Quicherat, Histoire du costume en France,
Paris, hachette, 1875. Camille Enlart, Manuel d’archéologie française,
Paris, Picard, 1916 (t. III). Germain Demay, Le Costume au moyen age,
d’après les sceaux, Paris, Dumoulin et cie, 1880.
10 Lucien Febvre, ‘Le problème des divisions en histoire’, in the Bulletin
du Centre International de Synthèse Historique, no. 2, December 1926.
[Editors’ note: but see note 9 in Chapter 1 here, ‘history and Sociology of
Clothing’.]