Lonely Planet India - August 2016

GREAT FROM

New Delhi

GREAT FOR

A start to your Kashmir vacation

GO NOW

While it’s not too hot or too cold.

TURN OVER FOR ALL YOU NEED TO GET THERE

1. Moored in a quiet
   corner of the lake
   a stay at Sukoon
   makes for the perfect
   start (or end) to your
   Kashmir vacay


2. Evenings are
   best spent on
   the rooftop deck
   of the houseboat


3. Every view
   from the houseboat
   is a spectacular one


4. Don’t miss out
   on the delicious
   phirni made
   with semolina (suji)
   and flavoured
   with saffron

stretch along the Jhelum River.

Spend the evening at Shalimar Bagh

which is still quite pretty even though

it has lost quite a bit of its former glory

(9am – 8pm; ` 20). Built by Emperor

Jehangir for his wife Noor Jahan

the garden has a main water channel

filled with fountains and lined

with tall chinar trees. End your

day at the viewpoint near the

Shankracharya Temple at the end

of the Reserve Forest Road where

you can look over the city as the sun sets

(7.30am – 5.30pm).

words nadezna siganporia

photographs jeremiah christanand rao

phirni (non-veg: 1900 veg: 1600).
Then spend the evening on the lake
with a shikara ride that takes you past
the floating market filled with loud
vendors trying to sell you everything
from hand-carved wood pipes to chicken
tikka and beer (see Good to Know).

Early next morning set off for the trek

to the Zabarwan Hills which starts

with kahwa and kulcha at a local’s

home. A short walk through the

village and you are on your way

up to glorious views.

Later head into town for a

more leisurely tour of the Old City

with Manzoor Dar – the guide used

by Sukoon (` 6700/ two with transport

and lunch). Start at the pretty Jamia

Masjid and wind your way through

the chaotic alleyways of Zaina Kadal

which is lined with shops selling

traditional copper utensils and

spices meander past centuries-old

abandoned houses and end at a quiet

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