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Morning
More than 30 islands lie off
Northumberland’s coast. Best
known are the Farnes, but Coquet
Island, at the southern tip of the
AONB, is closer to the mainland and
quieter in peak season. Adventure
Northumberland offers guided
kayak trips around Coquet’s
remote, wind-swept shores
where you can spot seals in their
hundreds. Largely uninhabited, the
island is a crucial site for seabirds,
too; 40 ,00 0 jostle for nesting
space in summer, so sightings
of puffins and roseate terns are
guaranteed. Back on dry land,
peruse Amble harbour’s pop-up
craft and snack stalls, before lunch
at The Fish Shack. Since chef duo
Dave Myers and Si King of the Hairy
Bikers visited in 2020, booking
ahead is essential.
Afternoon
Earl Grey is sipped the world over,
but few know it was invented at
Howick Hall. Meander up the coast
to visit the magnificent Georgian
manor where, in 183 0, Earl Charles
Grey added bergamot to his tea
leaves, offsetting the lime from
water in Howick’s well and creating
the blend we know today. Walk the
hall’s wonderful gardens, spanning
65 acres, before sitting down
to a good old-fashioned cream
tea. Alternatively, adrenaline
junkies can head 20 minutes back
to the sea, where Adventure
Northumberland runs coasteering
expeditions. A catch-all term for
slithering, sliding and jumping
off rocks, it’s a daredevil way to
explore this dramatic stretch of
shoreline, full of hidden coves and
rocky outcrops.
Evening
In the heart of Alnmouth, a pocket-
sized village with a couple of pubs,
a delicatessen and a gift shop
selling local pottery, don’t miss The
Whittling House. Whether you’re
staying at the boutique hotel or
not, dinner here is a must. Try
plump, tender scallops surrounded
by an indulgent amount of garlic
butter, and just-caught lobster,
grilled to perfection with a truffle
and parmesan crumb. Leave space
for the lemon curd and elderflower
cheesecake. Afterwards, head next
door to The Red Lion Inn. Nightlife
on the coast is fairly non-existent
— you won’t find any beach parties
in the AONB —but the pubs are
good fun. Order a beer from the
Hadrian Border Brewery; you’re
not far from the ancient Roman
barricade, after all.
DAY TWO ISLANDS & EARLS
ALNWICK CASTLE
Sprawling Victorian
gardens, Italianate interiors
and a claim to fame as
Hogwarts in two Harry
Potter films, Alnwick
Castle is a masterpiece
of medieval architecture.
Built during the Norman
conquests, it’s the home of
the Duke and Duchess of
Northumberland, whose
ancestral name of Percy
appears in Shakespeare
plays. Visit for a glimpse
into British history, and
even a broomstick lesson.
alnwickcastle.com
CHILLINGHAM CASTLE
Chilling by name, chilling
by nature: this 13th-century
fortress bills itself as
Britain’s most haunted.
Six ghosts are said to
wander its rooms, including
the Radiant Boy, whose
cries echo in corridors at
midnight. Set within rolling
countryside half an hour
inland from Seahouses, the
castle even has eight rooms
for brave travellers to spend
the night, joining a night
tour to hear more about the
castle’s ghostly residents.
chillingham-castle.com
WARKWORTH CASTLE
The towering ruins of
Warkworth Castle stand
guard over the River
Coquet, which snakes
its way out to sea at
the southern end of
Northumberland Coast
AONB. Add on a side trip
to Warkworth Hermitage,
a chapel carved out of the
cliff face, accessible only
by boat. Check opening
times before you go;
they’re more limited than
the neighbouring fortress.
english-heritage.org.uk
Fairytalecastles
TOP THREE
Right: Grey seals rest on the
rocks in the Farne Islands
JUL/AUG 2022 53
WEEKENDER
