National Geographic Traveller - UK (2022-07 & 2022-08)

IMAGE:

AL

AMY

MORE INFO

pilgrimscoffee.com

footstepsnorthumberland.co.uk

thepottedlobster.co.uk

bamburghcastle.co.uk

thejollyfishermancraster.co.uk

kipper.co.uk

adventurenorthumberland.co.uk

boathousefoodgroup.co.uk

howickhallgardens.com

redlionalnmouth.com

1900.hadrianswallcountry.co.uk

HOW TO DO IT

Take the train to Newcastle-

upon-Tyne. From there,

hire a car to fully explore

the Northumberland Coast.

Enterprise and Europcar both

have branches in the city.

newcastlegateshead.com

The Whittling House in Alnmouth

has doubles from £150, B&B.

thewhittlinghouse.co.uk

The Northumberland Coast Path, a stunning, 62-mile route running from Cresswell to Berwick-upon-Tweed,
is officially divided into six sections. Here are three walks to try:

Seahouses to Craster
(10 miles)
Begin in Seahouses, a lively fishing
town and gateway to the Farne
Islands. Follow the coast south,
climbing sand dunes and picking
your way through bracken. This
is a rugged stretch of coastline,
where views span across slate-grey
North Sea waters and you’ll likely
have only kittiwakes for company.
Refuel mid-point at The Ship Inn in
Low Newton, a gastropub run by a
animated mother-daughter team,
famed for fresh lobster. Continue
past a row of ramshackle beach
huts towards Dunstanburgh Castle,
a crumbling 14th-century fortress
standing on a remote headland.
Carry on another mile for a warm
welcome at the white-washed
cottages of Craster, and from local
bar staff in The Jolly Fisherman.
shipinnnewton.co.uk

Cresswell to Hauxley Nature

Reserve (seven miles)

Sleepy Cresswell marks the start of

the Northumberland Coast Path.

Head north to Druridge Bay, a

seven-mile stretch of dune-backed

beach where avian enthusiasts

should stop to spot shore larks

with striking yellow throats and

the fluffy white plumage of snow

buntings. If time allows, make a

short detour inland to Ladyburn

Lake, a sprawling body of water

surrounded by meadows, before

veering right towards the coast

and Hauxley Nature Reserve.

Northumberland Wildlife Trust

took this former coal mine into its

care in 1983 , and the 80 -acre site is

now home to a healthy population

of otters, red squirrels and

badgers. Refuel with coffee and

cake at the lakefront cafe, onsite.

nwt.org.uk

Berwick-upon-Tweed coast

and walls (three miles)

A stone’s throw from the Scottish

border, this relaxed ramble

starts and ends in Berwick-upon-

Tweed. Walk a small section of

the Northumberland Coast Path,

heading south down the beach to

admire the red-roofed lighthouse

perched on a windy promenade.

Then turn inland, walking on the

Elizabethan ramparts encircling the

town — some of the best preserved

fortifications in Europe. They were

much needed: over the course of

Berwick’s history, the town changed

hands between the English and

Scots 13 times. Centuries of shifting

allegiances have left the locals

(known as Berwickers) with an

inimitable sense of independence;

even their accents are unique,

carrying a hint of both countries.

northumberlandcoastpath.org

THREE MORE COASTAL HIKES

Wonder wall

An icon of Roman

Britain, Hadrian’s

Wall celebrates its

1,900th birthday this

year. Time your visit

to the region with

one of the festivals

and events taking

place along its 7 3-

mile length this year.

Fishing boats moored

up in Seahouses Harbour

(also known as North

Sunderland Harbour)

54 NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.CO.UK/TRAVEL

WEEKENDER