Australian Stitches — September 2017

upper-arm fullness may choose a
fairly streamlined sleeve that ends
with a dramatic cuff.
A blending of ideas is the secret for
these home sewers.

Pattern alterations
Length
The fi rst alteration will be for arm
length. It is important to measure
your pattern tissue carefully so that
the correct adjustment is made.
Normally we measure down from the
shoulder marking in the top of the
sleeve cap to the hemline. If there

are any design options such as cuffs,

turn-back facing, or sleeve extensions

that infl uence sleeve length, these

features must be accounted for

before shortening or lengthening the

sleeve. In particular, note that there

will be ‘blousing’ on the sleeve pattern

when a cuff is attached. The ‘blousing’

will be a minimum of 5cm (2in) and

upwards, depending upon garment

style. If you alter out the ‘blousing’,

when the garment is worn the cuff will

ride up the arm in an uncomfortable

manner. See diagram 4.

If your arm length is not

proportionate, you will need to

alter your pattern length in two

different areas – fi rst, the upper

arm and second, the forearm. This

is particularly important if fashion

dictates an unusual sleeve length, an

elbow dart, or special design detail

within the sleeve. By way of example

let’s describe a sleeve adjustment of

non-proportionate

Arm length

The arm length is standard with a

short upper arm and long lower arm.

If making a garment with a special

2. Vogue
   V9006
   6. Vogue
   V7876
   4. Vogue
   V8581


3. Vogue
   V9006


4. Vogue
   V9029


5. Vogue
   V1259


6. Vogue
   V8816

Tips and Techniques