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Sauerkraut
Kiseli kupus
“Sauerkraut is very popular throughout Central Europe
and there are hundreds of recipes for it,” says Kuvačić.
“It can be braised, eaten raw with salads, cooked
with sausages or used in hearty soups. These days,
sauerkraut and other fermented foods are regarded
as superfoods and you can buy fancy sauerkraut in
organic shops. It’s easy to prepare yourself – unless
your Croatian family, like mine, prepares 50 kilos by
hand, and then it’s hard work. Every year my father
makes his own sauerkraut in a huge barrel.” This
sauerkraut takes nearly six weeks to ferment.
Makes 1kg
1 kg cabbage, very finely sliced
1 carrot, grated
2 tbsp polenta
50 gm salt
1 tbsp cumin seeds or fennel seeds1 Mix all the ingredients together in a large
bowl until well combined. Begin transferring the
mixture to a large, sterilised glass or plastic jar
(see cook’s notes p176) a handful at a time. After
each layer of cabbage, press down on it with your
fist until the liquid is released and comes to the
top. Keep adding the cabbage, continuing to
press after each addition so all the liquid ends
up at the top of the jar.
2 When all the cabbage is pressed in the jar,
cover the jar with plastic wrap and seal with a lid
to ensure it’s airtight. Store in a cool, dark place
for 40 days. After opening, eat the sauerkraut
within a few weeks.Duck with sauerkraut
Patka sa zeljem
“This is a dish to satisfy your heart and soul during the
colder months,” says Kuvačić. “The rich flavour of the
duck complements the sauerkraut perfectly. It’s not
difficult to make and it can keep in the refrigerator for
a week. This kind of dish always tastes better the next
day, so I recommend cooking it the day before. You
can serve it with mashed potato or just some good
crusty bread.” If you’re making your own sauerkraut
(see the recipe at right), start six weeks ahead.
Serves 4
1 kg duck, bones in, cut into 8cm pieces
(or cook a whole duck)
2 tsp paprika (hot or mild)
¼ tsp freshly grated nutmeg
50 ml extra-virgin olive oil
100 gm pancetta, finely diced
4 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped
500 gm sauerkraut (recipe at right)“This is a dish to satisfy yourheart and soul
during the colder months.”Duck with
sauerkraut
Pork, pasta and bean soup
Pašta fažol
“Pašta fažol is by far Croatia’s most popular dish.
Continental Croatians call this hearty dish ‘grah’,
but don’t include pasta,” says Kuvačić. “In Dalmatia,
though, the dish is a more Mediterranean version.
This rich soup is a soul-warmer and you can serve
it as an appetiser or as the main meal with good bread
and a nice Dalmatian wine. The secret ingredient to
making this delicious meal is the pancetta fat and
garlic paste. It’s crucial to soak the dried beans
overnight, then blanch them in water to remove
the toxins – your stomach will thank you.”
Serves 4 (pictured p106)
500 gm dried beans such as cannellini and
borlotti
4 dried bay leaves
200 gm smoked pork shanks or ribs
(see note)
2 litres (8 cups) beef stock or water
1 onion (about 200gm), coarsely chopped
2 carrots, coarsely chopped
4 celery stalks, coarsely chopped
2 tbsp tomato paste
150 gm smoked flat pancetta with lots of fat
8 garlic cloves
100 gm dried pasta (rigatoni or small tubetti)
2 tbsp chopped flat-leaf parsley1 Soak the beans overnight. The following day,
drain them and put them in a large saucepan with2 dried bay leaves
1 cinnamon quill
500 ml (2 cups) vegetable stock1 Season the duck with paprika, nutmeg and salt.
Heat the olive oil in a cast-iron pan or claypot
over high heat. Add the duck and sear until
golden brown (2-3 minutes each side). Transfer
the duck to a plate. Add the pancetta to the pan
and sauté until golden brown (2-3 minutes). Add
the garlic and sauté for a couple of seconds, then
add the sauerkraut and sauté on low heat until
nice and golden (10-15 minutes).
2 Return the duck to the pan with the bay
leaves, cinnamon and vegetable stock. Braise on
low heat, or bake in the oven uncovered at 190C
for 1 hour. If necessary, add more vegetable stock
to loosen the mixture a little. Season to taste with
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, and
serve straight from the pan.