the bay leaves. Cover with water and bring to the
boil. Drain, but don’t season the beans yet.
2 In another large saucepan, put the pork
shanks, stock or water, vegetables, tomato paste
and the red meat trimmed from the pancetta
(reserve the fat). Bring to the boil, then reduce
the heat to low. Season with sea salt and freshly
ground back pepper, and simmer until the meat
is tender and vegetables are soft (1 hour).
3 Meanwhile, finely chop the white fat of the
pancetta and blend it in a food processor with
the garlic to a smooth paste.
4 After the soup has been cooking for 1 hour,
remove the pancetta meat (reserve for another
use or chop and return it to the soup if you
prefer) and add the blanched beans and garlic
paste. Simmer until the beans are soft and
starting to break up (30 minutes). If you want to
thicken the soup, scoop out a couple of cups of
the soup (including vegetables and meat), blend
in a food processor, then return this to the pan
before adding the pasta.
5 Add the pasta and cook, adding more water
or stock if necessary, until al dente (5-10 minutes).
Garnish with parsley and serve.
NoteSmoked pork is available from select
supermarkets, delicatessens and butchers.
White baccalàWhite baccalà
Bakalar na bijelo i na crveno
“It’s traditional in Catholic European countries to have
baccalà while fasting during Lent,” says Kuvačić. “It’s
also usually eaten on Fridays, especially on Good
Friday and Christmas Eve. It’s regarded as a clean food
for the soul by the Catholic clergy. There are hundreds
of recipes for baccalà throughout Spain, Portugal,
France, Italy and Croatia. For my family, Christmas Eve
is unimaginable without baccalà on the table – its
scent fills the house, announcing that a feast is about
to begin. My family prefers air-dried (unsalted)
Norwegian cod, which is superior in quality and price.
Salted Portuguese cod is also good and a lot cheaper.
Serveitatthestartofamealwithtoast.”Startthis
recipe three days ahead to soak the baccalà.
Serves 4
500 gm baccalá (see note)
1 kg waxy potatoes, such as Desiree, sebago
or Nicola, peeled and roughly chopped
1 garlic bulb, cloves separated and peeled
100 ml milk
250 ml (1 cup) extra-virgin olive oil
½ bunch flat-leaf parsley, chopped (optional)1 Soak the baccalà in cold water for 3 days,
changing the water every day, then drain. Cook
the soaked baccalà in salted water until it softens
and the skin starts to break up (about 30 minutes).
Take the fish out of the water (reserve the water)
and flake the meat from the skin and bones.
2 Cook the potatoes in the baccalà cooking
water until soft and starting to break up. Strain
the potatoes, reserving the cooking water.
3 Cook the garlic in the milk over medium heat
for 10-15 minutes. Strain and reserve the garlic
and milk separately.
4 Combine the baccalà, potato and garlic in
a bowl and mash, slowly adding the extra-virgin
olive oil. Add a little of the reserved garlic-infused
milk and a little of the potato cooking water if
necessary to work the mixture into a creamy
paste. Season to taste with sea salt and freshly
ground black pepper, add the parsley, if using,
and serve. Makes 2 litres. White baccalà will
keep refrigerated in an airtight container for
three to four days.
NoteBaccalà is available from select
fishmongers.>