Australian Wood Review – June 2017

(Steven Felgate) #1

50 Australian Wood Review


WOODCARVING


  1. As a helpful guide, you might prefer to make up this
    template. The vertical lines are 10mm apart, with the depth
    of each numbered. Please note the template is only true in
    three places because the form is asymmetrical – the centre
    point is not in the middle of the template.

  2. This useful jig was made to hold the block while I carved
    it. It is a bench hook, about 250mm wide and around
    400mm long. I drilled 4 x 12.5 mm holes as shown, to take
    four lengths of 12.4 mm dowel. Make the fit of the bowl
    inside these dowels a little loose so it can be easily moved.
    The holding power of the dowels will be increased with a
    thick bottom board made from 50mm stock. Protect your
    hands with a pair of gloves. Older style cycling gloves are
    ideal, as they have generous padding in the right areas.
    (Newer, hi-tech ‘designer’ gloves are predictably stingy on
    the padding.) When you carve, the end of the tool handle
    should be pushed by the centre of the palm of your driving
    hand and new carvers will quickly develop a blister without
    a glove. Your other hand can also take a battering, so it will
    help to protect it as well.
    7. The deep gouges (No’s 7, 8 and 9) can remove a lot of
    wood, very quickly. The 7 and 8 gouges shown in this
    picture are from 18 to 30mm wide. They can be powered
    by hand, or by mallet. I use a mallet to begin with, and
    switch to hand when closing in on my final shape.
    8. Start carving by gouging out a hole in the centre of the
    block. I used the 8/18 gouge (No.8, 18mm wide), working
    along the first set of marked lines. You will find the process
    much easier if you can keep your work as neat as possible.
    9. Here you can see what I mean by neat. With practice,
    you can work very quickly, but still place your cuts neatly
    beside each other, and keep them roughly the same shape
    and depth. I work around at least twice on the outer series
    of cuts, until the shape is continuous from top to bottom.
    It is most important to visualise the shape you are after,
    and try to make the cutting edge of the gouge trace out
    that shape as it moves from top to bottom of each cut. You
    cannot carve a curve if the gouge is moving in a straight
    line. Practically, this means beginning with the handle of


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