the gouge high, and progressively dropping the handle as
the blade moves down the slope of the cut. This action
becomes automatic after a while.
- You can see the gentle curve of each cut in this photo,
as the carving moves towards the final depth indicated
by the drill hole. As always, concentrate on getting each
cut to follow neatly the one before it. After you finish one
side, reposition the block on the holding jig to allow you to
comfortably carve the next side.
- Work with the No.8 gouge is finished when you reach the
outer lines, and are down to the depth of the drilled hole.
Switch to a No.3 gouge of anywhere from 20 to 35mm
wide (depending on what size you have available, and
your hand strength, although you can still use a mallet if
you prefer), and begin to flatten out the surface. Take care
as you approach the line where a pair of sides meet. By
carefully cutting in from each of the two sides, you can pop
out the wood shavings, leaving a clean line of intersection.
- It can help to first define the line of intersection with a
V-tool. At this stage you will probably also have to spend a
considerable amount of time refining the final curve of each
side. This is where your template can be indispensable.
Note that a template must be used from a reference
surface. In this case, my template has two tabs – one at
each end – that must finally sit on the top surface of my
bowl. Without these, you might carve the correct surface
shape, but it might not be orientated correctly to the rest of
the bowl – it might be horizontal, or vertical, for example.
- The finished inside surface needs to be as smooth as
possible, straight off the tool. I do not advise sanding it,
unless you want to spend a lot of time resharpening your
V-tool, as the sandpaper leaves grit in the wood surface
that will quickly blunt your edges. Next, use either your
fingers as a gauge, or your compass, or something like
my Colen Clenton pencil gauge, to mark out a line about
10–12mm below the top inner edge of the bowl.
- Use a flat chisel, or an almost flat No.2 gouge, carve a flat
sloping surface from the outside top edge of the bowl to
the line that you have just drawn. This surface will serve
to accentuate the top of the V-cuts you are about to carve,
giving them a much livelier appearance.
http://www.woodreview.com.au 51
WOODCARVING
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