- Once the surface is finished, and the top slope is carved,
mark out guide lines for the V-cuts to follow. These can
be randomly spaced, or you can use your dividers and trial
and error to mark out a series of spaces approximately
10mm apart. - With a sharp V-tool (I used a Pfeil No.12/12mm), make
the first cut down the line of intersection between two
of the three inner faces. If, in the beginning, the first cut
is about a third of the width between the first two pencil
guide lines, it needs to stay that way as it proceeds down
the inner surface. To do so, it must become progressively
shallower. Continue down only as far as you feel
comfortable. Note in the photo how the cut on the right
hand edge of the V is going against the grain. - The arrows in this photo show the direction of the
progression of the cuts, so as to have the correct
orientation to the grain. Some woods will not allow you to
cut against the grain at all, in which case you would need
to cut one side in one direction, and the other side in the
other direction. That would not be practical with cuts this
narrow. With this cedar, however, a sharp tool can cut
against the grain, particularly if the wood on that side of
the cut has the support of uncut wood behind it. If the
wood behind has already been cut, the top ridge formed
by the second, against the grain cut, has very short cross
grain, and will likely crumble under the pressure of the cut.- The bottom part of the cuts can be completed with the
same V-tool, or one of a smaller size (note that the tip
of the tool is the same size on all the tools of the same
number, in this case No.12, and only the sides are smaller
on the smaller tools). Not all cuts will reach the bottom,
as there is insufficient space, so some will peter out or
be over-cut by those on each side. Concentrate on aiming
each cut at the centre of the bowl, and stop the cut when
it seems appropriate to do so. You might need to rework
the centre to achieve a more balanced grouping once all
the cuts have been completed. - I have completed the interior first because it is easier to carve
with the entire bottom of the block supporting it. Now we
can turn the block over and mark out the back for carving. - I used the Colen Clenton pencil gauge to draw the lines on
the sides of the bowl block. - Using each corner as centre, I drew the 22 and 43mm
lines on the bottom of the block. It would be a good idea
to draw the 62mm line now as well (I did it later as you will
see, but it is easier to do it now). - When carving the 22–20mm first bevel off all round,
once again you need to take care with the grain direction.
Remember to distinguish between figure (the dark heavy
lines caused by the growth rings of the tree intersecting
with the plane of the wood surface) and grain (the small,
needle-like, short black lines), when you look to determine
the grain direction (see my article in AWR#87). The drawn
52 Australian Wood Review
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