I AM A BURGER NERD. Over countless articles I have written
about everything from the importance of structural engineering
when constructing the ideal burger to the correct way to eat
a burger in the street. What I have only recently realised is that,
in doing so, I have become an unwitting pawn in Big Burger’s
plans to take over the world.
If you doubt me, trust the internet. Google the words ‘burger
world domination’ and you’ll get more than 400,000 hits.
And if you don’t trust the internet, then trust the evidence
I’m about to lay before you: a grand culinary conspiracy is afoot.
THE BURGER PRESIDENT Burger chains have long been held
up as the worst examples of American culinary colonialism, and
with the ascension of Donald Trump, the burger bloc finally got
their man. Trump is a long-term burger boy, whether ordering
from Macca’s, from the special burger section of the menu at
the Trump Tower cafe, or enjoying his favourite, the US$36,
1200+ calorie sirloin, short rib and chuck ‘21’ burger served
at the 21 Club a few blocks from Trump Tower.
The Donald’s love of burgers was even held up by his short-
lived communications director, Anthony Scaramucci, as proof
that Trump wasn’t elitist. And the burger rhetoric continued
when the now-departed deputy assistant to the president,
Sebastian Gorka, described the scandal surrounding Donald
Jr.’s meeting with a Russian lawyer as a “massive nothingburger”
(a phrase originally coined by Hollywood gossip columnist
Louella Parsons back in 1953).
ONE BURGER TO UNITE THEM ALL On the face of it, Donald
Trump and Oprah Winfrey are at opposite ends of the political
scale. She supported Hillary Clinton and threw massive shade
on Trump’s suitability for the top job. Yet she describes the
burger made with turkey mince, apple and celery at Mar-a-Lago,
the Donald’s private club in Palm Beach, as “the best turkey
burger in the entire world”.
THE TURKISH REVOLUTION Is it more than coincidence that
the political unrest in Istanbul centres on Taksim Square, home
of that city’s famous late-night snack, steamed ‘wet burgers’?
BURGER DIFFUSION Not content with being a tasty fast
feed, fuelling public revolt and having its own president, the
burger is also trying to colonise other areas of junk food; be it
cheeseburger-flavoured Pringles, barbecue-burger-flavoured
ice cream (seriously!), endless versions of ‘Burger Bites’, or the
750,000 cheeseburger pizza recipes and images on the internet.
There’s even been a canned cheeseburger! Sure, you dismiss
But Matt Preston finds his expertise in all things pattified
comes with a downside: it’s made him a tool of ‘Big Burger’.I LOVE BEING A
BURGER FIEND
this as bogan junk food, but think on this: the UK’s most serious
food icon, Nigel Slater, is not above making ‘burger spaghetti’.
Trump and Oprah... Protests and late-night snacks... Nigel
Slater and junk food... What was that about politics making
strange bedfellows? Anyway, to this month’s recipe, my take
on the chicken burger.MADRAS BUTTER CHICKEN BURGER
MAKES 6 BURGERS
“I reckon a chicken breast is too cumbersome to go in a roll. The
solution is to cube the chicken and set these cubes into patties
mortared together with softened butter that then sets in the fridge.
The result is a super-juicy, decadent burger that won’t explode
all over you, and much of the butter melts away during cooking.”
You will need 6 x 7.5cm egg rings for this recipe.2 (about 500g) chicken breasts, cut into 1cm cubes
1 tbs hot Madras curry powder (substitute regular
curry powder)
1 tbs nigella seeds
60g unsalted butter, chopped, softened
6 small white burger buns or bread rolls
2 tbs mango chutney, plus extra to serve(^1) / 2 cup (140g) Greek yoghurt
(^1) / 2 head butter lettuce, leaves separated
Coriander leaves, thinly sliced long green chilli (optional)
and lime wedges, to serve
Line a tray with baking paper and arrange egg rings on
prepared tray. Place chicken, curry powder, nigella seeds and
butter in a bowl and stir until chicken is well coated. Divide
chicken mixture evenly among egg rings and chill for 2 hours
or until patties are set.
Heat a non-stick frypan over medium-high heat. Add
patties in their egg rings and cook for 4 minutes or until golden.
Flip patties and rings, and cook for a further 4 minutes or until
patties are cooked through. Remove from rings and set aside,
loosely covered with foil.
Split buns and spread chutney over bases and yoghurt
over lids. Top each base with lettuce and a chicken patty.
Sprinkle with coriander and chilli, if using, and season. Top
burgers with bun lids and serve with extra mango chutney
and lime wedges.
38 delicious.com.au
PHOTOGRAPHY
BEN DEARNLEY
STYLING
KIRSTEN JENKINS
MERCHANDISING
EMMALY STEWART