80 Classic Car Mart Spring 2016
well, remove the dipstick (found at the rear of the
engine bay) and check the colour of the fluid. It
should be bright red – if it’s dark brown and/or
smells burnt, the brake bands could be worn and
the ‘box will be due an expensive rebuild.
Engaging first gear on a manual MkII will
involve double-declutching as there is no
synchromesh on first gear, and while test
driving a prospective purchase listen out for
any clicking, rumbling from the gearbox or
whining from rear axle. Worn selector bushes
in the column change will make selecting ratios
difficult, as can an ineffective hydraulic clutch
with air in the system.
SUSPENSION/BRAKES
Check the condition of a MkII’s front MacPherson
struts by gently pushing down on the front
wing and counting the number of times the
car rebounds. It should only bounce once and
immediately resettle, any more and the offending
strut is worn, or needs topping up with oil and
will require immediate attention (always replace
in pairs). Grease nipples are fitted to all the
suspension and steering joints on a MkII, so
take a look to see if any new grease has been
pumped into the joints recently.
If a MkII feels loose on the straight and
wallows around corners like a big fat whale, it’s
probably a good indication that all is not well
in the suspension department. A rolling gait
could be down to worn front or rear springs,
or again shock absorbers well past their best.
MkII steering boxes can be adjusted for wear by
removing shims, however a ‘box that has been
over adjusted will be too tight and just as bad as
one that is too loose.
Early MkII’s were fitted with all-round drum
brakes and these should pull the car up squarely
when the centre pedal is pushed hard. Any
juddering or squealing indicates problems,
which could be down to scored drums or oil
contaminating the friction linings. Later MkIIs
were fitted with servo-operated disc brakes as
standard, although some owners may well have
fitted optional discs to earlier models at some
point. While inspecting underneath the car, check
for any fluid leaks behind the drums or from the
calipers (if fitted) and also inspect the condition
of all the hydraulic pipework as well as the
handbrake cables and linkage.
BODYWORK
Unfortunately, Ford didn’t protect the MkII’s mild
steel monocoque from the elements too well
at the factory and rust can strike just about
anywhere as there are lots of moisture traps
where the tin worm can do its worst unseen.
Starting underneath the car at the front, the
main places to check for rust are the chassis
rails, front strut turrets and spring pans, inner
and outer sills, front and rear outriggers and all
four jacking points. By now, any of the original
dealer-applied rubber-based underseal will
probably have come away from the body and
trapped moisture out of sight where, in some
cases, it may have rusted through the panel it
was supposed to protect.
There are two hidden water traps in the floors
below the front and rear seats on a MkII. This
isn’t an easy area to check, as the front seat
doesn’t go back far enough. However, if the seat
mounts look as if they are corroded or have been
poorly repaired, expect trouble in these unseen
areas too.
Front wings will rot badly around the
headlamps and side lights, around both arches,
along the trailing edges behind each wheel and
up the leading edge near the front doors to the
seam where the wing join the scuttle. The bonnet
can rot out along its leading edge, especially
in the lower corners, while the inner wings will
corrode around the strut mounts and along
the seams with the outer wings. Rust can form