Hydraulic Structures: Fourth Edition

leading to structural failure. The design of offshore structures must there- fore not only take account of the forces exerted on ...

vertical distance between the crest and the trough is the height of the wave H, which is twice the amplitude, a. The wavelength, ...

If the waves are also long crested, the fluid motion is two dimen- sional. Since waves can travel over large distances without s ...

and at the free surface, the vertical component of velocity vmust be such that y ∂ ∂  y  y  d d  t  (14.8) whereis t ...

Figures 14.3 and 14.4 show, respectively, the variations of the linear wave celerity and period as functions of wavelength and d ...

14.2.3 Particle kinematics The velocities uandvare obtained from their definitions in terms of the potential (equation (14.3)). ...

X cos(kx t), Y sin(kx t). (14.18) In the above equations the mean particle position is given by (x,y), i.e. by its coordinat ...

over one wavelength per unit length of the wave crest. The potential energy (PE) in a wave is obtained by finding the work done ...

R 1 2 ^ ga^2  2 c ^1   (14.24) or RECg where Cg 2 c  1  . (14.25) Cgis called the group velocity. It can be seen ...

eate one theory from another are shown in Fig. 14.6. In deep water, linear theory is applicable as long as the steepness of the ...

14.4 Waves approaching a shore Waves generated in the deep water of the ocean travel without change of form for a considerable d ...

From equations (14.13) and (14.14), respectively, for candc 0 , c^2 c^20  L L 0 tanh 2 L πd . After substitution for L/L ...

Hmay be expressed as HKsKrH 0 (14.34) whereKs(Cg0/Cg)1/2is the shoaling coefficient. To facilitate drawing of refraction patte ...

H/d0.78. (14.36) TheShore Protection Manual(US Army, 1984) recommends a formula in SI units for wave-breaking in shallow water ...

(Fig. 14.2(c)). The profile of the solitary wave relative to the axis moving with the celerity of the wave is /Hsech^2 [(3H/d) ...

14.6 Wave reflection A wall in a wave field interacts with a progressive wave by reflecting it; the reflected wave moves in a di ...

14.7 Basin oscillations In a basin the width of which is uniform and much smaller than the length, oscillations occur in the lon ...

If the basin is long, the wavelength can be large in relation to the depth of water, and the shallow-water result for the period ...

Three regions may be distinguished in the figure: (1) the region consisting of incident and reflected waves (A), (2) a region in ...

wind at a particular point is  1 a  ∂ ∂ p n  2 U*sin (14.45) where∂p/∂nis the pressure gradient normal to the isobar, Uis ...