On Food and Cooking

Cookbooks often assert the importance of beating yolks with sugar until they lighten in color and thicken s ...

that contains small pieces of a vegetable, meat, or cheese. To make it firm enough to be cut into we ...

softened again by placing the dish in a shallow pan of hot water for a minute or two before unmolding ...

prepared on the stovetop by making a crème anglaise, pouring it into dishes, and caramelizing the sugar to ...

in a thick cast iron pan or passes through infrared-transparent glass than is transmitted by thin stai ...

Cheesecake We don’t ordinarily think of cheesecake as a custard, probably because the presence of eggs i ...

flavorings. The cool mix is poured into the pan (often preceded by a crumb crust) and baked at a gentle ...

and little by little you pour in some milk, about [3 cups/750 ml]. Add a little stick cinnamon, and chop ...

cooked on the stovetop. Then... When the cream is well cooked, put a silver platter onto the hot stove with ...

incorporates more air bubbles that will fill with steam and expand during baking. Second, bake the cheesec ...

cream through a strainer before it’s served. Pourable and Stiff Creams There are two broad classe ...

and turn the stiff cream into a pourable one. When stored for any time, creams should be protected agai ...

it in a crust, and bake it, and serve it forth. — from a manuscript published in Antiquitates Culinariae ...

cooling, because their acidity and fibrous particles can cause curdling during the cooking. Pastry Cream, Bouilli ...

yolk amylase enzyme and to extract starch from its granules, and to improve the flavor, the thickened cream is s ...

eggs, and mix the white and yolk with about a half litron [7 oz/185 gm] flour, as if for making porridge, ...

word means a plain porridge-like cereal paste), which is made at the last minute, and primarily to reinf ...

egg yolks in a starch-thickened pie filling are heated all the way to the boil. Fruit Curds Fruit curds — le ...

If the transformation of eggs by heat seems remarkable, consider what beating can do! Physical agitation no ...

and twigs, shreds of dried fruits, and sponges could deliver only a coarse froth at best (see box, p. 101 ...